Use an early Toyota Throw Out Bearing for the Land Cruiser,
Worldparts Beck/Rnley 062-0898
These are about twice the weight of the ones "sold" as OEM today
and are really robust looking/feeling. I've used these in 4 cars
already
with no noise, no problems. These should last the life of the car.
After trying presses, the rotating screw on tool to prevent BB damage
and most every other method.... my secret is:
1. place bare sleeve into the freezer overnight coated with WD-40
2. place the TOB on a cold 25W light bulb downside down, plug it in
and wait 30 minutes
3. wear gloves
4. place the sleeve on counter, lay TOB down on it (correct direction)
and leave this to cool/heat (do quickly)
This method requires no tools, seems to work everytime and cannot
damage the TOB.
OPINION ONLY - the TOB and PP sold as OEM on the TR6 just
plain aren't. The PP is 2 to 3 times as stiff and the TOB is just
plain
junk. I have several cars with original PP's and I just replace the
TOB
and clutch disk, not wanting the new "feel" of a muscle car PP in a
100HP car.
The Sach's brand PP, SC436 is better than the others, though still not
as light as the original's.
Note the PP bolts come in different lengths, make certain to test fit
and
watch the torque, these things are spec'ed really low.
The best alternative to the fork pin was drilling/tapping the shaft and
other side
of the fork for a grade 8 bolt the same size as the threads in the fork.
This bolt was threaded through the fork, through the cross-shaft into
the other side of the fork, i.e. stock location, but threaded all the
way.
I usually use the new hardened fork pin with a new cross shaft and
only snug the pin as excess tightening will crack it. Those pins on
the
fork can be rotated with vice-grips to put a fresh area into the TOB.
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