Brian, see my answers in your message below. I did quite a bit of research
on this a few years ago when I replaced my original 28 yr.old wire wheels --
and the hub adaptors, and the original studs. Remember -- "pay now or pay
later" in time or money.
In a message dated 06-Aug-99 20:15:43 Eastern Daylight Time,
sanborn@net1plus.com writes:
> Do I have to cut the studs. Any tips on how to do it?
They need to be shortened. I suggest taking them out and ordering new ones
(for wire wheels) from TRF. The hardest part is taking the old ones out, but
it is not that big a deal. You do have new hub adaptors I presume?
> How much needs to be cut?
See above.
> Would it be better or easier to replace the studs?
IMO -- Replacing them is better.
> Or does the spacer plate idea work better... any downsides?
See no need for that. It increases the tracking width of the front end and
adds another unecessary part.
> When balancing can I use regular rim mounted weights or should I find
> someone who has the stick on kind they use on alloy wheels?
I use regular ones on the INSIDE of the wheel. They can't be seen and work
just as well.
> How tight do the hub nuts need to be?
If you mean the adaptor nuts, the answer is:Tight.
> How tight should the knockoffs be?
See my articles(2) at www.vtr.org in the maintenance section. The site was
down for a power outage this weekend. Should be back up on Sunday.
> Does the hub get buttered the silvery grease (can't remember name)
I use white lithium grease and apply it once a year. Any good grease should
do, this is not the Space Shuttle. The main reason you use the grease is to
stop rust on the splines in order to prevent them from seizing up.
> I have seen copper colored stuff used as well?
Don't know about that.
>
BTW -- I do not agree that wire wheels are a hassle. I have always had wires
and do NO maintenance on them except for greasing them as above and balancing
them whenever I rotate the wheels. Never had a problem. Just don't go
running into things or they will get out of "true."
Also, Rick Taylor wrote in answer to you:
>>When you have the wheels and tires/tube balanced make sure they do not put
the >>wheels against the plate on the balancer. They must use centers on the
front and
>>the back of the wheel.
I agree with him (note also that he mentioned "tubes" -- you should use
tubes") and have found that a GOOD tire shop (look around) will know how to
balance wire wheels. Make sure they know what they are doing. I just saw an
article on this in the past few weeks but would have to dig around to see
where I read it. It says the same thing. BUT
IMO -- a much better solution is to have the wheels balanced ON THE CAR.
This eliminates the above problem and gives a much better balancing since the
whole axle, hub, wheel and tire is now in balance. Again a GOOD tire shop
will know how to do this. Cost me $10 per wheel last Spring. If you don't
understand what I mean come back to me and I'll explain. Cheers.
Art Kelly '64 TR4 CT33118L (original owner, always wire wheels--2 sets in 35
years-- and a daily driver for many of those 35 years)
|