I just did this last night, and used a slightly different technique. To remove
the silentblocs, I used a large bench vise and some appropriately sized
sockets. I lined a deep oversized socket up over the end of the silentbloc, and
a socket sized to push on the bushing on the other end. Put it in the vise and
tighten, and the silentbloc popped out. Using the same technique, I installed
the new ones. No press required, and total time on the bench for removal and
installation was 15 minutes.
I havent driven the car yet, but given the condition of the silentbloc attacked
to the steering box arm, it should make a huge difference in handling.
Michael Ferguson wrote:
> For those of you who may need to replace tie rod (TR) ends and
> Silentbloc bushings on your TR3, I offer the following step-by-step
> instructions. When faced with this prospect myself, I really couldn't
> find a set of "cookbook" type instructions (Bentley, Haynes, Kenneth
> Ball and Glenn notwithstanding) so I just plunged ahead.
>
> Disclaimer: As they say on TNN's Shade Tree Mechanic though, all necessary
> steps may not be described here and additional info may be required...or
> words to that effect. Bottom line is, the following is what I did and it
> worked for me...Your results, and methods, may vary. We're talking steering
> here, folks...caution and care are extremely important!
>
> NOTE 1: This is for REPLACING these items, not re-using. If you intend to
> re-use any parts, you may want to reconsider some of the "remove by banging
> with a big hammer" procedures or you may ruin threads)
>
> NOTE 2: It's probably a good idea to measure and make note of the distance
> between the centers of the tie rod ends (on both sides) before disassembly
> so that the current "alignment" can be approximated when reassembling.
>
> 1) Disconnect negative battery terminal - no idea why, but they always
> tell you to do that 8^).
>
> 2) Raise front end, support securely on jack stands and remove wheels
>
> 3) Turn steering wheel to left lock (or right, if you have a right hand
> drive car) so you can disconnect from the drop arm first (helps avoid
> steering box damage)
>
> 4) Remove nyloc nut holding Silentbloc bush to steering drop arm
>
> 5) Using a pickle fork, pry the silentbloc loose from the drop arm. Do
> not use a hammer as this may damage the steering box components. Mine
> came loose by prying only - maybe I was lucky? When it does break loose
> though, be prepared as your elbow/wrist/hand (pick one) may strike the
> garage floor quite abruptly - don't ask me how I know this.
>
> 6) Now, turn the wheel to the opposite lock and pry the s/b bush from
> the idler arm. Since you've first disconnected from the steering box,
> you should be able to use a little more force if needed.
>
> 7) Remove the nyloc nut (or castellated nut w/ split-pin) from the
> outer T/R end on the idler arm side of the car (just because you're
> already there).
>
> 8) Using the pickle fork, pry the outer T/R end out of the steering
> link.
>
> 9) Turn steering back to the opposite lock and pop the other outer T/R
> end
>
> 10) You can now pull the entire assembly (both T/R ends and Cross Link)
> from the car
>
> 11) Remove the nyloc (or castellated nut w/ split-pin) from the
> remaining inner T/R ends and, using a block of wood and a hammer, pound
> all four T/R ends from the Tie Rods
>
> 12) Also with a hammer, remove the steel pins from the s/b bushes. All
> that's left now are the rubber bushes and steel sleeves in the Cross
> Link.
>
> 13) Insert a small (6" long or so) SQUARE SHANKED screwdriver between
> the bush and the sleeve. Turn it as though driving a screw. The square
> shank will cause it to "walk" it's way around the bush, breaking the
> bond between the two.
>
> 14) Push the rubber bush out with a larger screwdriver or other
> suitable tool
>
> 15) Clamp one end of the Cross Link in a large vice and, using a
> suitably sized socket (just a hair less that the diameter of the hole in
> the Cross Link) and a large hammer (I used a 2lb, I think, hand sledge),
> force the steel sleeve out of the hole. (You might not want to use your
> best socket - minor denting, but not too bad). Same with other end.
>
> 16) If you don't have access to a press, take the Cross Link and the
> new silentbloc bushes to a machine shop or your local mechanic (not
> necessarily LBC). Mine pressed the new ones in in about 2 minutes - no
> charge. Make sure they put 'em in in the right direction - I marked mine
> with masking tape and drew an arrow on it ...if I hadn't been watching, he
> STILL would've put 'em in upside down!
>
> 17) Thread new T/R ends to tie rods
>
> 18) Insert new inner T/R ends into cross link and torque nylocs to the
> correct specification
>
> 19) Insert assembly (cross-link and both tie rods) back into the car
>
> 20) Insert silentblocs into both drop arm and idler arm, turning
> steering as needed to allow access
>
> 21) Using new nyloc nuts (by the way, these are not included when you
> buy from Moss, although they ARE included with Moss' T/R ends) torque
> both to spec
>
> 22) Insert outer T/R ends into steering link and torque nylocs to spec
>
> 23) To complete the job, you'll need to adjust the length of both tie rods
> and tighten the two lock nuts on them. That should be done in conjunction
> with an alignment (actually, that IS the alignment), but if you're going to
> drive it to a shop for this part of the job, be sure to approximate the
> alignment by setting the length of the tie rods to match the original
> setting (before disassembly - see NOTE 2 above) and tighten the nuts before
> driving.
>
> I haven't figured out the best method for a home-brewed alignment yet,
> but have a few ideas. Guess I could actually spend the money and let a
> pro do it, but since it seems so straightforward, would like to at least
> try it myself first. Will post "how-to" if successful...or "would
> recommend a pro" if not. 8^)
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> --
> Michael Ferguson
> Vernon CT
> 1959 TR3A TS53990L
>
> >
|