Message text written by Jerry Oliver
>Tony and others interested. Yes, I am referring to positive camber, that
>is, the top of wheel leans to outside of car (see page 4-211 of TR4
Good, we are on the same wavelength here.
>manual). I did consider just letting the rear springs "sag in" during
>initial use, but the ride height is quite high. I'm using new Michelins
What is the height of the frame off the ground?
What is the height of the top of the wheel wells off the ground?
I have a 4A with the Moss mild comp springs and these ought to give a
good basis of comparison (180/70 tires, moderate tread wear). I
understand the ride is slightly lower than stock with these springs.
>175s, which are probably close to the 590s that came on the car. I have
>an original owners manual that pictures the car and the wheels look tiny
>by today's typical use of larger tires. The other thing I didn't mention
>is that these are new springs from Moss, standard grade, and the fronts
>are also. They sell a front spring with a "reduced thickness spacer" for
>the front. However, the ride height is also very high in the front. I
I THOUGHT the new Moss stock springs used NO spacer in the front. I guess
they told you differently in person when you made the order.
Remember, when the cars were very new, they had a bunch of clearance around
the wheel in the well....
>may try removing the front spacer as well. Tony, check my reasoning on
>this. If I'm, say, 3 degrees positive with Outer 2Up Inner 1up, I need
>to go toward negative camber by 5.5 to 6.5 degrees, the closet setup on
>your chart is Outer 3D Inner 3Up, or 0.98 degrees from maximum negative.
>Getting more negative camber should lower ride height. I remember when I
>owned a new 66 TR4A, by 1968 it had to have spacers installed it was
>dragging so much. Comments appreciated. Jerry Oliver <
The Kastner Comp prep book (which is a very early book) says:
camber is not adjustable, and is only set by adjusting spring length
which
changes ride height. This is no longer true. However, he recommends
ZERO to 0.75 degrees negative camber for "racing trim"
The Vizard Tuning book (1970) says:
The front should be set to 1 degree negative camber. (for spirited
driving), but
zero degrees is ok too.
( The front stock is +2 degrees)
The rear should be set to zero to 0.5 degrees negative. (for spirited
driving)
(Stock rear is -1 degree +/-0.5 degree)
For small changes, the outer bracket can be modified: 1/8" movement of
the holes
corresponds to 1 degree of camber change.
If you are 3 degrees positive camber and need to get to -1, then you need
to add 4 degrees
of negative camber. Brackets: 2U/1U = 3.61 relative degrees: we ould like
to lose
4 degrees from this, but the best we can do is drop to zero with 3D/3U.
This ought
to bring you to -0.69 degrees or so on the car.
I just wonder why you have so much positive camber! The stock springs are
not supposed
to be all that long...... Are they the "correct" springs?
-Tony
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