Allen Hess wrote:
>A friend of mine did this two or three years ago, he found out from someone
>else. I posted this a year or so ago and it seemingly was ignored at that
>time. It is the only elegant solution. Grade 8 bolts etc. border on DP...
Seems to me like the machine work that would be necessary to key the shaft
would be relatively expensive. Also, it seems to me that from an
engineering standpoint, you'd be re-inventing the wheel to some extent. In
other words, you'd have to do some work and serious pondering to determine
what the appropriate length of the key would be, and then are we sure that
the fork will not split where the keyway is? These problems/questions may
not be insurmountable, but I would think that just fabricating a PROPER
pin, i.e., one that's not tapered and that takes the load all along it's
length is both elegant and effective, and you don't have to re-engineer the
whole thing.
With respect to just adding a second bolt, well, it wouldn't be my first
choice... but a lot of folks have solved the problem this way and it's not
all that bad a solution in my opinion.
The OEM taper pin really is not that bad in my experience... I've had my
TR6 for 13 years and have never had a pin failure. This means that you
really don't need to COMPLETELY re-engineer the thing... just figure out
what it is with the OEM system that's inadequate and fix it, and that's
really pretty darned easy, and not even all that expensive.
Just my own opinion...
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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