>3) The color, British Racing Green, ...how can I make sure I get an
>"official" Triumph color? Do I need to buy a can of paint from Moss
>Motors, spray once on a sheet of paper, and have the body guy match it?
>Or is there some code the paint supplier can follow?
>
>This is sorta difficult. I just took a stab at my color. There is a
>Triumph Racing Green and I am not sure what the difference is. Good Luck
>on this one.
>
>4) Base coat/clear coat...this is a modern paint type. Is it improperly
>inauthentic to use this type paint? And will it end up too darned shiny?
>Is there a way to control glossiness of finish and should I try to steer
>him one way or another?
>
>If it is not a 100 point concours car why are you concerned with too
>shiny? It is not a bad paint system.
>- --
>Cheers,
>Mike Thompson
Robert, Mike,
ICI has a single layer urethane called "2K" available in accurate colors.
The proper BRG for your car is ICI # 2855 and can be mixed by any ICI paint
supplier from this number. A local source of ICI paint can be found by
calling ICI customer service at 1-800-647-6050.
Triumph Racing Green to which you refer is also called "Conifer". It is
Triumph code 25, ICI # 3736 and was used on TR4,$A,5,250 and 6's. (Not
correct for a TR3), but a very pretty color.
Any modern finish whether single layer or base coat/clear coat is going to
have a higher gloss level than the original finish. I don't know if a
flatting material (usually a silica powder) could be added to the system
without adverse consequences. I will ask my contact at ICI if this is possible.
There are arguments on both sides of the single layer vs. base coat/clear
coat debate. A good painter will acheive good results with either system. I
plan to use ICI "2K" single layer on my TR3A when ready for paint.
Hope this helps.
Don Pikovnik
Coloramic Process, Inc.
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