On Fri, 4 Dec 1998, Robert Klips wrote:
> 1) Paint fenders, doors, etc. on the car or off the car? I think off
> because it will ensure all surfaces get covered. Body guy thinks that
> reassembly without scratching is very difficult and suggests first
> assembling the car so that everything fits, then painting it. Would that work?
Both are correct. It will depend on how much your body guy likes you;
he'd probably rather do it *his* way.
Myself I'd take the doors off and then scratch the paint when I put them
back on. But I do all my work myself (lack of money) so it's a bit
different.
> 2) The body putty he proposes will not be to fill in major areas but just
> to smooth out spots. Is that OK?
Yup. If you see body tools in evidence in the shop (slappers, hammers,
dollies) and they look careworn, that's a good sign.
> 3) The color, British Racing Green, ...how can I make sure I get an
> "official" Triumph color? Do I need to buy a can of paint from Moss Motors,
> spray once on a sheet of paper, and have the body guy match it? Or is there
> some code the paint supplier can follow?
To my knowledge there are millions of shades of British Racing Green.
It's your car, and you don't want concours... pick your favorite. Either
the body shop or the paint store should have a book of colors you can pore
over.
Jaguar racing green is a deep green (with a bit of blue in some light)
that's also metallic. I have it on my TR4 and it looks great, even with
all the rust and bondo.
> 4) Base coat/clear coat...this is a modern paint type. Is it improperly
> inauthentic to use this type paint? And will it end up too darned shiny? Is
> there a way to control glossiness of finish and should I try to steer him
> one way or another?
You can't have a car that is too shiny!!! The clear coat will make the
car look like it has a very 'deep' finish. Maybe you should see another
car painted the same way and see if you like it.
-Malcolm
* There is a FAQ for this list! Its temporary home is:
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/walker/triumph/trfaq.htm
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