In a message dated 98-07-13 13:08:36 EDT, you write:
> Any clue where the horn
> relay is/what it looks like? I assume (if the relay is good), that I can
> just run a new wire from the switch to the relay, then from the relay to
one
> horn, then to the other (with the proper ground wires, of course :-).
> Any hints on ways to use a voltmeter along the way to make sure things
> are correct?
Frank,
The horn relay is a little metal (or plastic on later years) box, about 1" x
1" x 2", located on the firewall. It will have one or more purple wires, one
purple/black wire, and one purple/yellow wire going to it.
The purple wires should go to a terminal marked C2. The purple/black wire
should go to a terminal marked W1. The purple/yellow wire should go to a
terminal marked C1. At least, that is the markings on most horn relays in a
Spitfire. Your relay may have been replaced with a slightly different model.
Typically, the terminals are labeled W1, W2, C1, & C2. W1 & W2 are the relay
coil terminals, and are interchangeable - power goes to one, and ground (via
the horn button) goes to the other. The C1 & C2 terminals are the internal
switch contacts, and are also interchangeable - power to one, and the other
goes to the horns. On the Spit relay, the C2 terminal is connected internally
to the W2 terminal, which doesn't extend to the outside of the relay.
The first step is to test the horns themselves, and the ground wiring at the
horns. Remove the purple/yellow wires from the horns, and apply 12 volts to
these terminals (very lightly and briefly at first, just in case there is an
internal short. Or , fuse the test lead). If the horns and grounds are good,
the horns will blow. If not, repeat the test with a good ground connection. If
still no horn operation, then the horns are bad.
To test the remainder of the circuit, first look for 12 volts on the purple
wires. If no voltage, look for a break in the purple wires or a blown fuse. If
you have 12 volts, pull the purple/yellow wire and momentarily connect it to
the purple wires. When you do this, the horn should blow. If not, there is a
break in the purple yellow wires to the horns. If the horns do blow,
additional tests are required.
Reconnect the purple/yellow wire, and short the terminal with the purple/black
wire to ground. If the horns blow, there is a break in the wiring to the horn
button. If not, your relay is bad.
It is also possible, unfortunately, that you may have more than one problem,
so you may have to repeat some of the tests to find them all.
> Now the wipers - the wires are disconnected. I connected them back up
> once, but it didn't help. Any diagnosing help here would be greatly
> appreciated.
There is a complete description of the operation of windshield wipers, and a
trouble shooting section, on the VTR web site, at:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/wiper-motor/
I think you will find every thing you need to properly trouble shoot the
wipers there. If not, let me know, and I will try to help.
I am leaving in the morning for St Louis, MO, and then on to Hudson, WI on
Tuesday. I'll be off the list till the 26th, at which time I am going to
replace the hard drive in my computer - if no-one hears from me again, you
will know what happened. Hopefully, I can make the swap and be back up with no
problems, but I don't count on it.
See you all in Hudson!
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
|