Thanks for the suggestions about my problem on hills. I think I may
need to look more closely at the fuel pump or maybe the ignition
system. But I would still like to hear from anyone who has a lot
of experience adjusting the Stromberg carb after a rebuild. I
really have two questions.
1) Is there a way to figure out how to set the bi-metal spring when
the factory-scribed mark is no longer accurate. I'm thinking of
something like pulling off the heat mass and spring while the
engine is running hot and marking the location of the catch on
the spring and then using this to make a final adjustment. But
I know that the piston-return spring in the choke housing opposes
the bi-metal spring. So how far should I rotate the heat mass
to get the right balance.
2) Just what is the sequence for adjusting the fast idle, the throttle
stop, and the air valve needle? I seem to have lucked out here
because the engine is idling perfectly now and running great at
moderate speeds. But I am worried about relying on luck, and DO
have this problem at high rpms and on hills!
Tim Gaines
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