I completed the bottom end rebuild on my '75 TR-6 (54k) this past weekend
without incident (almost). New main and rod bearings plus thrust washers.
Oil pressure has improved, but I'm sorry I didn't also install a new oil
pump while I had everything opened. I have ordered one and will do this
some rainy weekend.
The center bearings were showing traces of copper, front and rear did
not. The only difficulty that I had was installing the top bearing shell
on the front main. The old one didn't want to budge more than 1/4". I
gave up, left the old upper and put in just the new bottom half
rationalizing that this is where most of the wear occurs anyway. I called
it quits for the day at that point.I'm pleased with myself that I showed
restraint and didn't dive in with bigger, heavier tools in an attempt to
remove that last bearing at all costs. While crawling out from under the
car (one of the hundreds of times) I managed to demonstrate hydraulic
theory by stepping on a large, opened tube of lithium grease, squirting
it all over my other foot and leg. A little comic relief.
While in the shower I kept mulling over why that one bearing would be so
much tighter than the others. When Eureka, I realized that the tension of
the alternator drive belt was holding the crank tightly against the top
bearing. So much for carefully reading the manuals.
When finally done, while topping up the oil level, one of those plastic
oil bottle cap retaining rings dropped off into the valve cover. I guess
it was time to remove the valve cover and paint it anyway.
Thanks to all those who who posted answers to my original questions on
the topic.
Richard
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