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Re: seeking TR6 Rear end advice

To: cowan@lax.erg.sri.com, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: seeking TR6 Rear end advice
From: JoeSimcoe <JoeSimcoe@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:03:06 EST
Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com)
Cregg,

First bit of advice - pick one area of the car and complete it.  Don't think
too far ahead.  (assuming that you want to keep the car on the road as you
complete a "rolling restoration")

Since you titled your post "rear end advice"  I would suggest that you work it
over first.  

I have just completed mine.  I considered the rear end to be from the end of
the drive shaft to the rear hubs.  (you can handle the brakes under a separate
endevour)

Drop the differential.  Take the back cover off of it and inspect it for
obvious chipped gears, rust etc.  -  If it hasn't been whining or giving you
trouble - leave it alone. (assuming no obvious internal defects)  If it is
leaking "a little" - leave it alone.  You start taking it apart and you'll end
up with a real project.  It is a bugger and you'll bend at least one shaft
getting it apart to get at the seals.

Box in the front differential mounts - replace mounts with new Poly mounts -
new u-joints in the half shafts - new boots and gaiters - rebuilt hubs if
there is excessive play in them (don't try these yourself unless you're really
good. ) 

I didn't balance mine, and don't see any noticeable difference.  What I did do
when I had all of this apart is replace the rear springs - add new rear
uprated shocks. (I had previously replaced the mounts in the trailing arms -
if you haven't now is the time.)

This will get the rear suspension up to shape.  New springs, shocks and
trailing arm mounts will make an unbelievable differnce in rear "squat".  New
diff mounts and the piece of mind of boxing in the mounting pins will give you
an unbelievably tighter feel when accelerating.

My 2¢
JoeSimcoe



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