triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: body caulk

To: Patrick Bitton <pbitton@axess.com>
Subject: Re: body caulk
From: George Richardson <gprtech@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 23:18:09 -0400
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Merlin Group Inc.
References: <1.5.4.32.19971017191048.0068d3a8@mail.axess.com>
Patrick Bitton wrote:
> 
> At 06:18 PM 10/17/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >SUCHAK wrote:
> >>
> >> While sandblasting the shell of my car I'm ending up removing a bunch
> >> of  the caulking / sealant that seals the seams.  What is this stuff,
> >> and where can I obtain it?  I'm assuming replacement is called for...
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> John
> >>
> >> --
> >> Come see us on the Web!
> >> http://www.jacksonville.se.mediaone.net/~suchak/home.htm
> >
> I know what you are talking about. I had tonnes of it on my car. I don't
> know what it is called but I was surprised to still find that stuff stuck on
> my car after 23 years. I would take a sample of it a hardware or body shop
> and ask them what it could be.
>         I am thinking of doing the samething. Sealling wise. But I may have
> a new technique. Get some gasket cork and use it as a seal. You can seal it
> with silcon and I figure it will never let water enter the seams. Never
> tried it but it's worth a shot. Also, I will be priming the shell with
> POR-15(www.POR-15.com). With that you can be sure your car will never rust
> again.
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Patrick
> 
> 1970 TR-6 1rst Yellow, then Blue, Now Red
> CC 52138 0(the crappiest one)
> 1974 TR-6 Orange
> CF-13548 U

I don't think much of the idea of priming with  POR-15. I've used it on
my frame, and although it sticks fine to rusty metal, you have to rough
up non rusted metal to get it to stick. It's also extremely tough to
sand after it's applied. I wouldn't ever use it in high finish areas.
-- 
George Richardson
'57 TR3, TS15559L
(getting ready to paint - and now on the web!)
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>