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Re: how to make a voltmeter work?

To: dynamic@transport.com, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: how to make a voltmeter work?
From: DANMAS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 20:09:14 -0400 (EDT)
In a message dated 97-06-03 13:35:38 EDT, dynamic@transport.com (Pete &
Aprille Chadwell) writes:

> So, at this point, how do connect
>  the voltmeter so that it will work, or, since I have it connected wrong,
>  have I fried it?  Can anyone help me with this?

Pete:

Just hooking up the voltmeter as an ammeter will not harm it (I know this
sounds unreasonable, but it's true. if anyone asks, I will explain how this
can be!).

 As far as replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter, it is very simple:

1) disconnect the ground lead from the battery

2) remove the dial lamp and the wires to the ammeter, and remove the ammeter.

3) there are three wires to the ammeter - one large Brown, one large
Brown/White, and one smaller Brown/White. Connect them all together, and
insulate well. Be sure to make a good connection, because this connection
carries most of the current in the car.

4) insert the voltmeter. If it is a Lucas or a Smith, insert the lamp from
the old ammeter. If not, cut the Red/White wire to the lamp, and splice it to
the lead coming from the lamp in the voltmeter (There may be two R/W wires to
the lamp). There may or may not be a separate ground lead for the lamp. If
there is, connect it to any convenient ground point.

5) connect the (+) lead to any convenient Green wire (Green wires are hot
only when the key is on, and are fused). A very convenient point is the turn
signal flasher in the passenger footwell - that's what I used in my '71. Do
NOT connect to the LightGreen/Green wires going to the other gauges! The LG/G
wires come from the regulator, and that's not what you want to measure!

6) connect the (-) lead to any convenient ground point.

7) reconnect the ground lead to the battery.

That's it!  Of course, there is always the possibility that the car has been
modified, and is not as described above. If this is the case, get back to me,
and we will revise the instructions as required.

Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN

'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
                    www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74


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