Monica wrote:
>
> I used a little permitex (gorilla snot) to hold a warped gaskit
> in place while I installed the cover. Other than that I don't think
> any is needed... unless you've got a real oil leak on your hands.
>
> -jimb
> 741/2 TR6
> www.snovalley.com/~monica/jbtr6.html
>
> Martin Libhart wrote:
> >
> > Installing new cork valve cover gasket on the TR6 (first time since
> > recent purchase). For this gasket, is any type of gasket dressing, RTV,
> > etc. or other product advisable, based on anyone's previous experiences?
> >
> > Martin Libhart
> > 1972 TR6 (driver)
> > 1970 Spitfire Mk.3 (under restoration)
Martin & Monica
I've found that gasket shellac or permatex high tack applied to the
cover side to keep the cork gasket stuck in place and wheel bearing
grease to the head side has worked well for me for the past 20 or so
years. You can also take it apart for a time with no damage to the
gasket except for some set from compression.
I use permatex # 1 or #3 on a finely machined surface with no gasket
such as a VW Block halves. I've used it on the TR6 axle seal plates.
Silicone works well when no gasket is available and you have two good
surfaces to seal. Used it succesfully on domestic applications and such
things as the rear TR6 Aluminum Differential cover to the Cast Iron
Carrier.
Glenn Franco
71 & 74 TR6
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