On Sun, 24 Nov 1996 02:06:32 -0500 Creigtrium@aol.com writes:
>Pete,
>
>I had the same trouble that you describe regarding your clutch not
>disengaging when the pedal is all the way to the floor. My car still
>has
>that problem and a friend's car had it too. We fixed my friends car,
>but I
>haven't gotten to mine yet. With my car, everything is ok cold, but
>when
>everything gets hot, it gets to the edge of not wanting to disengage
>very
>well. I have not noticed any black particles in my fluid. I'll have
>to look
>at that closely.
>
>The fix: (for the clutch disenganment, I don't know about the black
>particles)
>
>First, use the upper attachment point for your slave cylindar
>attachment to
>the clutch arm. This gives you a little bit more throw on your clutch
>for
>the same amount of push on the clutch pedal. (It also makes the
>clutch even
>heavier to push.)
>
>Second, make sure that your pin connecting your clutch pedal to your
>master
>cylindar is not worn. These wear easily, making your clutch pedal
>bottom out
>a little earlier than normal. The hole on the clutch pedal wears
>also.
> Older TR's had adjustable rods between the clutch pedal and the
>master
>cylindar. That way, when things got worn, you could just lengthen the
>rod a
>little.
>
>What my friend and I did with his car (and I am prepared to do with
>mine) is
>we had the clutch pedal hole drilled out a little larger and slightly
>off
>center a little closer to the firewall. Then we installed a hard
>bushing and
>a very hard pin. (Hopefully it will never wear out.) This gave us
>more push
>distance on the master cylindar before the clutch pedal bottomed out.
>My
>friend's car works perfectly now.
>
>Hope this helps. Sorry I can't help on the particles in the fluid.
>I'll be
>interested to see what someone else has to say on that.
>
>Creig Houghtaling
>St. Louis, MO
>
My clutch on y 72 TR6 works okay, but the fluid in the reservoir is always a
black, gunky mess. It's been working in that state for years.
One weak point on the TR clutch is the taper pin that holds the throwout
bearing fork in place on the cross shaft. I've never seen one of these
that wasn't broken. They still work, because they keep the fork from
moving much on the shaft, but it is still a source of lost motion, which, when
added to the wear and slop in the rest of the system can be a source of
trouble.
The apparent solution to ALL of this is expensive, but I think I'm going
to take the plunge. A British outfit called Cambridge Motorsport makes
a "direct-acting hydraulic system" which mounts directly to the nose of
the tranny and eliminates crossarm, fork, worn clevis pins, etc. It is
also said to greatly reduce the force required to operate the clutch,
which sounds great to me. The price of this unit is 346 pounds -
haven't seen it stateside yet.
If anyone has experience with one of these units, I would like to hear
about it.
Mark Anderton
1972 Triumph TR6 (daily driver)
1984 Jaguar XJ6 (2 ea - some people never learn)
1966 Morris Minor (everything a car should be)
1971 Land Rover
1967 Daimler V8 Saloon
1958 Velocette MSS (500cc single)
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