>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 11:02:35 -0600 (CST)
>From: NGAARD@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu
>Subject: Signal-light problems...
>Another little 'electrical' problem I have is that ever since I bought
>my Mk3 the warning light for brake failure in the dash has been ON all
>the time.
Just guessing here, but have you checked the brake pressure warning
switch? Not knowing that much about it, but the switch on my T-Bird has
a manual trip, Meaning that once the switch is on you have to manually
turn it off. That is the reason why I have pulled the connector (Never
had a brake problem since! :-} ). Hey Michael, thanks again for the
disk space!
>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 96 12:36:14 -24000
>From: "Sean Johnson" <sean_johnson@milacron.com>
>Subject: Spitfire wiring and general paint questions
>Wiring question:
>Some of the wires from the buzzer terminate with a symbol that looks
>like a rifle scope crosshair (circle with vertical and horizontal
>lines). What does this indicate?
Just guessing again, but it might mean positve ground connection. It
sounds like it. (Love Those British Engineers [smiling while typing]).
>Paint question:
>With the large areas involved, I don't want to polish by hand. Is
>there someone out there familiar with buffing machines that can guide
>me thru a procedure for removing the oxidized paint and polishing
>what's left?
Using a buffer takes experience, trust me. You can ruin what is left of
your paint without knowing how to use one properly. If you do try, just
remember, go slow and do small areas (less than 18 in X 18 in). Start
with an inconspicous area first for a test. Then start at the top down.
Follow the instruction on the polishing cream (or if it is really
oxidized, buffing compound). Afterwards, wash the car and hand dry it.
Then apply some color matching polish. This will help fill in some of
the cracks. REMEMBER that this polish has a dye in it, it will stain
some lighter colors. After this I would go over with a "Wet look" teflon
polish. This should give a fairly good finish. I am not a professional,
but this is all from personal experience. If a finish is too bad, there
is not much you can do. Good Luck
And Finally....
>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 03:38:36 -0700
>From: <emanteno@ix.netcom.com>
>Subject: Re: Waterproofing Tonneaus
>I bought a new(second hand) tonneau at Stafford last week, and last night was
>the first rain since. I discovered this morning that the
>drivers side is not quite as waterproof as I would like.
>Can anybody offer me the best way of reproofing vinyl?
Well, vinyl is waterproof. There might be some small pinholes it the top
that are leaking. However it is probably coming in from the edges. If
you want to try something that might work try self-adhesive foam tape.
Run a strip around the edge of the tonneau just on the inside of the
snaps. This might work, I would try it first and spray it down with a
hose for a short time to test. If it does work, then I would use some
carpet cement to attach the tape (self-adhesive really means
NON-adhesive!) to the tonneau. You might also want to spray the inside
of the tonneau with a very thin coat of spray-on vinyl. This will take
care of any pinholes in the top. This can be purchased at Wal-Mart or
any other major super store in the automotive or hardware department.
Good luck.
Sorry about the long post people, I just had SOOOOO much to say.
Richard "Reaper" Wilkerson
69 Spit MkIII (as Robin said, "Holey Rusted Metal Batman")
77 T-bird (AKA 'Reaper' , "Sooner or later the Reaper takes all")
P.S. Is there anyone within 150 miles of Beaumont,Tx with some
SpitFire parts for sale cheap (REALLY cheap)? Let me know.
P.P.S. The logo's I created are located at:
http://wwwvms.utexas.edu/~NGAARD/INDEX.HTML
This is Michael Noerregaard's Homepage.
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