>In a message dated 95-07-01 13:16:12 EDT, you write:
>
>>Now that I have my Toadster running, I'll be able to dedicate time (lots
>>needed) to rehabilitating my TR3A. First step: get it into my garage.
>>First problem: one of the rear brakes is locked up, and the drum won't
>>come off. First thought: just cut the old drum off, free the shoes, and
>>put a new drum on. First discovery: Moss/TRF/VB don't list 10" drums!
>>
>>There must be someone out there who's run into a similar situation with
>>an earlier TR3A. Are there any sources of 10" brake drums out there?
>>Or does everyone follow the manufacturer's lead and convert to 9"? If so,
>>what's the best way? Or (preferred) does anyone have a surefired way to
>>free up the brakes? The car has been outside for a _long_ time, so it's
>>possible the return springs have turned to dust.
>
>Get a several pieces of soft wood (pine works well) and a small sledgehammer.
>
>Use the wood to cushion the blow of the hammer, and pound away. Time and
>repeated strikes are far safer than slamming it hard once or twice, but you
>do need to strike with some authority. Keep fresh wood under the face of the
>hammer, and your drum should be free shortly. That's how I did my Spitfire.
>
>Michael Turley
>Killjoy@aol.com
be sure the brake shoes are backed off as far as possible, they can be the
problem when very worn with hills and valleys you won't believe until you
get them off
joe
Joseph R Schneider, MD, PhD
Assistant Professor of Surgery, Northwestern University Medical School
100 Burch, Evanston Hospital, 2650 Ridge Ave, Evanston, IL 60201
voice: (708) 570-2565 fax: (708) 570-2899 e-mail: joe-schneider@nwu.edu
"We don't need no stinkin' UNIX" (attributed to j-norstad@nwu.edu)
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