> In fact, Amy's name was introduced to this discussion erroneously (this
> e-mail program appended her signature file mistakenly). I posted another
> message to this effect.
I'm so sorry! I saw the followup message you mention, but I didn't
recognize its context. My Microsoft mailer doesn't give me any information
about the original senders of mail to the TR list, so unless people add sig
information to their mail, I'm completely in the dark.
> Hmm - well I know I can get an allen key down in there and twist on
something.
I've never actually seen one of the 70, 71 ZS carbs, so I can't say what
they look like; but I can't imagine there being an allen screw in the piston
bore if it wasn't for adjusting the needle. I'm sure there are reference
books that would correlate carb serial numbers with specifications and
applications--but I don't know where you'd find the books.
> >...valve cover nuts...
> I have mine sealed up with that RTV rubber-in-a-tube. I ran the car with
> both of the carb vacuum ports blanked off and it was the same though.
> >torn diaphragms.
> I've checked those out too.
OK, I admit defeat. Your car has no vacuum leaks.
> I think my plan at this point will be to try to
> get it half-way sensible (synched) again, forget about it for a week or
> two, then take it and have a professional check it out.
I give professional mechanics all the credit in the world and mean no
disrespect to them, but the home mechanic in me sure hates to see this.
> My main concern is
> that I don't want to go too far with it in a state which might cause
> unnecessary damage (burned valves/seats...??)
...pistons, spark plugs, and thence bores... And you're right to be
concerned. I believe that as long as you're not getting any pinging and the
coolant isn't boiling, you're safe driving short distances.
I remain,
> >Kevin Riggs
> >'72 TR6
> >rkriggs@ingr.com
> >Huntsville, AL
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