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Re: TR6 Rear End ?'s

To: mike@twinpeaks.prc.com (Mike Ladwig)
Subject: Re: TR6 Rear End ?'s
From: paisley@boulder.nist.gov (Scott W. Paisley)
Date: Mon, 15 May 1995 09:06:11 -0600
Cc: TinyHost@aol.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <v01510101abdc57639c85@[140.188.86.215]>
Mike Ladwig writes:

 > Things that can be wrong with the TR6 rear end:

Nice colletion of rear end TR6 goodies...
[some deleted]

 > 1.  Differential mounting points can be loose and the mounting brackets can
 > be broken.  Listen for solid thunks on throttle transitions, especially
 > down hill.  Since the diff is very heavy and mounted on rubber, it's best
 > to get someone who _really_ knows to look at this.

I'm digging deep into the gray matter, but I believe that accelerating
downhill and suddenly lifting off the throttle will produce the clunk.
Getting this fixed requires welding, but TRF has a support kit which
is supposed to fix this problem.

 > 2. Sliding joints (middle of the axle) can have some slop.  This one can be
 > figured out best by twisting the axle on either side.

I've never heard of this on, it would be rare IMO.

 > 3. Hub bearings.  Jack up each side, grab the tire top and bottom - wiggle.
 > If you feel something move, that's bad.

IMO, this is very likely your problem.  However, they are adjustable.
If you determine that they are bad, remove the axle through the
trailing arm, and take it to a local british car shop.  I had mine
adjusted for $25!!!  Sometime they can't be adjusted, and you'll need
to order a rebuilt one.  They can be had from TRF, but are pricey,
over $200. (!!!) There is a sleave inside the hub which crushes when
adjusting.  Once it's completely crushed, time for new parts!

 > 5. Rotting frame mounts. Very serious and dangerous.

A known problem on TR6's.  Though I doubt this is your problem from
you last email.  You may want to take a hammer and tap the part of
the frame where the trailing arms mount (on the underside).  If the
frame dents easily, then rot has started.

Good luck!

-Scott

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