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Re: [Spridgets] Small project report

To: Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Small project report
From: Weslake1330 via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2024 23:11:23 +0100
Cc: Spridgets <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: Spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <CAMhoh1U=Sn_dG21Pn4dG_rhh8bk9zwf2BjKe0MoHLbXg8SZEHQ@mail.gmail.com> <C7E091AF-F80E-43CC-B4FE-D3A5508E56AC@chartermi.net>
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I have thought about a vent each side but will leave just the one for now.
What I may plan is to make a slatted type vent in aluminium to replace the
mesh at some point.

Sixty Nine was something of a changeover year for when my Sprite was built
and it has always been a cross flow radiator car.

You should be able to get a vented cap.  An alternative would be to
temporarily remove the filler neck and then fit a vent line into that,
along with a basic non-return valve and then refit the filler neck.

Regards  Daniel

On Fri, 20 Sept 2024 at 22:24, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:

> Very interesting Daniel and your work looks great.  Why not cut a hole on
> each side?  Is your new radiator a cross flow or downflow?
>
> I've been driving Fr Jack's Midget a little and am trying to locate a
> horrific rattle that occurs at all speeds and seems to be the steering
> column.  Fuel pump keeps dying on me too and needs to be replaced.  Anoth=
er
> thing I haven't sorted yet is the fuel cap.  One of the previous owners
> replaced the fuel tank and the tank does not have a vent line like the
> original tank.  That means you have to leave the fuel fill cap so loose i=
t
> almost falls off to keep the engine running.  If you tighten it down the
> car runs OK for a quarter mile and then dies.  If you loosen the cap you
> get a big Whoosh of air and then the car will run again.
>
> Rick
>
> > On Sep 20, 2024, at 1:13=E2=80=AFPM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
> spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > =EF=BB=BF
> > Hi list,
> >
> > A small project report with some background history.  A few years back =
I
> fitted a small airflow blanking device just inside the grille, on one sid=
e,
> of my 69 Sprite and found it didn't make much difference to engine runnin=
g
> temperatures.  When tested in the full scale wind tunnel it was proven to
> reduce drag and lift.
> >
> > At the test everyone asked me why I didn't have one on the other side
> and I explained I hadn't checked if further airflow reductions would
> increase engine temperatures.  At a later date I made one and fitted it
> anyway.
> >
> > In more recent times the Sprite engine temps ran hotter than I would
> have liked and eventually I changed the radiator after some trouble in
> finding something I thought appropriate. Well I don't think it worked as
> well as the previous radiator and recently I finally found a company that
> would make a copy of the design that I liked.  I fitted it and have done
> some short drives and it works ok.  However, the engine temp is still a
> little hotter than I would like.  What I did find was that with this new
> radiator is that switching on the electric fan makes more of difference
> than it used to.
> >
> > On my second run I had a bit more data and found that because of a long
> stretch of 50mph speed limit (with lots and lots of average speed camera
> recording!) the engine ran 5 degrees C hotter than when I could drive at
> 70mph.  I have a rebuilt engine and there was a lot of traffic but I'm
> confident my normal cruising speed of about 85 - 90 mph (car has a 5-spee=
d)
> engine temps would be were I would want them to be.
> >
> > Note it's been warmer than usual for an English September and while not
> as hot as a hot summer's day can get, about ok for my tests since while i=
n
> the middle of the day I would generally drive early morning or early
> evening when the temps are lower on a warmer day.
> >
> > So, not very scientific but based on lots of my experience with the sam=
e
> Sprite.
> >
> > One thing I did notice was that the Sprite was very warm inside and muc=
h
> warmer than outside and there is no heater.
> >
> > So, the long overdue mini-project was to cut a hole in the wing
> (passenger side for me but exhaust manifold side for all of us) to let ai=
r
> out of the engine bay - a bit like a big Healey.  The wings are ok and ne=
ed
> minor paintwork rather than replacing but I was content to take the risk =
on
> the basis that I had funds to buy a new wing and get it painted if
> necessary.
> >
> > I drilled 3 large holes with a hole saw and then used a fine blade for
> metal in my jigsaw to cut straight (well very nearly) straight lines to
> create the aperture with nice rounded corners (used the largest hole saw =
I
> have).  Then I bought and then cut some stainless steel automotive mesh t=
o
> go in the inside of the aperture. I used U clips/speed clips on the mesh
> and suitable B type sheet metal screws to fasten the mesh to the wing
> (fender for you guys and gals I guess).  I did use countersunk head screw=
s
> but without countersinking the holes (in a hurry/sloppy/to be addressed).
> >
> > I think the end result looks ok but the only photo I have is of the car
> in my garage but just as I finished the project it rained.  I did a small
> airflow test with the electric fan running and was surprised at just how
> much air came out of the aperture.
> >
> > So, a road test (but weather is now cooler than my previous tests) to
> follow but I'm confident of 4 things: the engine temp will be slightly
> lower as more air will flow through the engine bay and thus more readily
> through the radiator, it will be cooler inside the car because the warm a=
ir
> is leaving the engine bay through the side wing aperture, not stagnant in
> the engine bay or passing through the trans tunnel as much, there will be
> slightly less drag, there will be slightly less lift.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> >
> > Daniel
> > <WP_20240919_14_57_37_Pro.jpg>
> > <WP_20240919_14_58_35_Pro.jpg>
> > <WP_20240920_14_46_27_Pro.jpg>
> > ------------------------
> >
> > spridgets@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk@chartermi.net
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I have thought about a vent each side but will leave just =
the one for now.=C2=A0 What I may plan is to make a slatted type vent in al=
uminium to replace the mesh at some point.<div><br></div><div>Sixty Nine wa=
s something of a changeover year for when my Sprite was built and it has al=
ways been a cross flow radiator car.</div><div><br></div><div>You should be=
 able to get a vented cap.=C2=A0 An alternative would be to temporarily rem=
ove the filler neck and then fit a vent line into that, along with a basic =
non-return valve and then refit the filler neck.</div><div><br></div><div>R=
egards=C2=A0 Daniel</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"l=
tr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, 20 Sept 2024 at 22:24, Rick Fisk &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:refisk@chartermi.net";>refisk@chartermi.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bo=
rder-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Very interesting Dan=
iel and your work looks great.=C2=A0 Why not cut a hole on each side?=C2=A0=
 Is your new radiator a cross flow or downflow?<br>
<br>
I&#39;ve been driving Fr Jack&#39;s Midget a little and am trying to locate=
 a horrific rattle that occurs at all speeds and seems to be the steering c=
olumn.=C2=A0 Fuel pump keeps dying on me too and needs to be replaced.=C2=
=A0 Another thing I haven&#39;t sorted yet is the fuel cap.=C2=A0 One of th=
e previous owners replaced the fuel tank and the tank does not have a vent =
line like the original tank.=C2=A0 That means you have to leave the fuel fi=
ll cap so loose it almost falls off to keep the engine running.=C2=A0 If yo=
u tighten it down the car runs OK for a quarter mile and then dies.=C2=A0 I=
f you loosen the cap you get a big Whoosh of air and then the car will run =
again.=C2=A0 <br>
<br>
Rick<br>
<br>
&gt; On Sep 20, 2024, at 1:13=E2=80=AFPM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">spridgets@autox.=
team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; Hi list,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; A small project report with some background history.=C2=A0 A few years=
 back I fitted a small airflow blanking device just inside the grille, on o=
ne side, of my 69 Sprite and found it didn&#39;t make much difference to en=
gine running temperatures.=C2=A0 When tested in the full scale wind tunnel =
it was proven to reduce drag and lift.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; At the test everyone asked me why I didn&#39;t have one on the other s=
ide and I explained I hadn&#39;t checked if further airflow reductions woul=
d increase engine temperatures.=C2=A0 At a later date I made one and fitted=
 it anyway.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; In more recent times the Sprite engine temps ran hotter than I would h=
ave liked and eventually I changed the radiator after some trouble in findi=
ng something I thought appropriate. Well I don&#39;t think it worked as wel=
l as the previous radiator and recently I finally found a company that woul=
d make a copy of the design that I liked.=C2=A0 I fitted it and have done s=
ome short drives and it works ok.=C2=A0 However, the engine temp is still a=
 little hotter than I would like.=C2=A0 What I did find was that with this =
new radiator is that switching on the electric fan makes more of difference=
 than it used to.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; On my second run I had a bit more data and found that because of a lon=
g stretch of 50mph speed limit (with lots and lots of average speed camera =
recording!) the engine ran 5 degrees C hotter than when I could drive at 70=
mph.=C2=A0 I have a rebuilt engine and there was a lot of traffic but I&#39=
;m confident my normal cruising speed of about 85 - 90 mph (car has a 5-spe=
ed) engine temps would be were I would want them to be.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Note it&#39;s been warmer than usual for an English September and whil=
e not as hot as a hot summer&#39;s day can get, about ok for my tests since=
 while in the middle of the day I would generally drive early morning or ea=
rly evening when the temps are lower on a warmer day.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; So, not very scientific but based on lots of my experience with the sa=
me Sprite.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; One thing I did notice was that the Sprite was very warm inside and mu=
ch warmer than outside and there is no heater.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; So, the long overdue mini-project was to cut a hole in the wing (passe=
nger side for me but exhaust manifold side for all of us) to let air out of=
 the engine bay - a bit like a big Healey.=C2=A0 The wings are ok and need =
minor paintwork rather than replacing but I was content to take the risk on=
 the basis that I had funds to buy a new wing and get it painted if necessa=
ry.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I drilled 3 large holes with a hole saw and then used a fine blade for=
 metal in my jigsaw to cut straight (well very nearly) straight lines to cr=
eate the aperture with nice rounded corners (used the largest hole saw I ha=
ve).=C2=A0 Then I bought and then cut some stainless steel automotive mesh =
to go in the inside of the aperture. I used U clips/speed clips on the mesh=
 and suitable B type sheet metal screws to fasten the mesh to the wing (fen=
der for you guys and gals I guess).=C2=A0 I did use countersunk head screws=
 but without countersinking the holes (in a hurry/sloppy/to be addressed).<=
br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I think the end result looks ok but the only photo I have is of the ca=
r in my garage but just as I finished the project it rained.=C2=A0 I did a =
small airflow test with the electric fan running and was surprised at just =
how much air came out of the aperture.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; So, a road test (but weather is now cooler than my previous tests) to =
follow but I&#39;m confident of 4 things: the engine temp will be slightly =
lower as more air will flow through the engine bay and thus more readily th=
rough the radiator, it will be cooler inside the car because the warm air i=
s leaving the engine bay through the side wing aperture, not stagnant in th=
e engine bay or passing through the trans tunnel as much, there will be sli=
ghtly less drag, there will be slightly less lift.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Regards<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Daniel<br>
&gt; &lt;WP_20240919_14_57_37_Pro.jpg&gt;<br>
&gt; &lt;WP_20240919_14_58_35_Pro.jpg&gt;<br>
&gt; &lt;WP_20240920_14_46_27_Pro.jpg&gt;<br>
&gt; ------------------------<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">spridget=
s@autox.team.net</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/s=
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<br>
</blockquote></div>

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