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Michael,
I'll never forget when in much younger days I was allowed to re-build a
1275 Mini engine for my Rolls Royce apprenticed friend to power one of
the Mini pick-ups he used for his business. The engine had been for a
re-bore, crank grind, balance etc and I had done a bit of gas flow work
on the head. Not a super hot racer but a more efficient mini delivery
truck. It seemed to re-build fine but when it came to firing it up, it
ran, but the oil pressure would not rise. My friend cursed me up hill
and down dale saying amongst other things, if you want a job doing, do
it yourself. I felt awful and didn't see him for a couple of days but,
when I did, I raised the engine problem to see what I had done wrong.
He couldn't get oil pressure up either (yeah!) and when stripped down
and checked over yet again, it was found each of the bearing surfaces on
the crank was tapered! Even now, now that I've slept a few times since
then, I still cannot work out how the grinding on the crank could have
been done like that. The firm that did it had one of the best
reputations in that part of Northern England in those days and should
have realised if their machinery wasn't correctly set. My friend
forgave me and let me play with more of his motors so I knew I was truly
forgiven, but I like to think that made me a slightly better (but
pedantic) spanner man. When you strip your engine down again remember -
you did it right - check the work others did. Others who perhaps don't
have the love of your engine that you do!
Keep the faith!
Guy R Day
------ Original Message ------
From: "Michael MacLean via Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, 4 May, 23 At 10:14
Subject: [Spridgets] 1275 Rod Knock Update
Took compression readings of the 1275 engine in my Bugeye as the start
of the rod knock diagnosis. Not good. No 1 was 110 psi, No 2 - 90
psi, No 3 - 80 psi and No 4 was 110 psi. Which means none of them are
up to snuff. Also found the spark plug wire for number 3 cylinder had
fallen out if the distributor. I plugged it back in and started the
engine. It idled smoother, but under acceleration the knock was still
there and definitely coming from the block. All this with only 3 - 4
thousand miles since the swap from 948 to 1275. Next will be the oil in
the cylinders and retake the compression test to see if the low
compression is due to the valves. Might as well figure a head rebuild
too. $$$$$$$$$$$$
Mike MacLean
------------------------
spridgets@autox.team.net
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org=
/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xh=
tml"> <head> <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3DUTF-8" /> </head> <body><div class=3D"auto-created-dir-div" dir=3D"auto=
" style=3D"unicode-bidi: embed;"><style>p{margin:0}</style>Michael,<div><p>=
I'll never forget when in much younger days I was allowed to re-build a=
1275 Mini engine for my Rolls Royce apprenticed friend to power one of the=
Mini pick-ups he used for his business. The engine had been for a re-bore=
, crank grind, balance etc and I had done a bit of gas flow work on the hea=
d. Not a super hot racer but a more efficient mini delivery truck. It see=
med to re-build fine but when it came to firing it up, it ran, but the oil =
pressure would not rise. My friend cursed me up hill and down dale saying =
amongst other things, if you want a job doing, do it yourself. I felt awfu=
l and didn't see him for a couple of days but, when I did, I raised the=
engine problem to see what I had done wrong. He couldn't get oil pres=
sure up either (yeah!) and when stripped down and checked over yet again, i=
t was found each of the bearing surfaces on the crank was tapered<span styl=
e=3D"display: inline !important;">! Even now, now that I've slept a fe=
w times since then, I still cannot work out how the grinding on the crank c=
ould have been done like that. The firm that did it had one of the best re=
putations in that part of Northern England in those days and should have re=
alised if their machinery wasn't correctly set</span><span style=3D"dis=
play: inline !important;">. My friend forgave me and let me play with more=
of his motors so I knew I was truly forgiven, but I like to think that mad=
e me a slightly better (but pedantic) spanner man. When you strip your eng=
ine down again remember - you did it right - check the work others did. Ot=
hers who perhaps don't have the love of your engine that you do!</span>=
</p><p><span style=3D"display: inline !important;">Keep the faith!</span></=
p><p><span style=3D"display: inline !important;">Guy R Day</span></p><br><b=
lockquote style=3D"margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 2em; border-left:2px solid #0=
0ADE5; white-space: pre-wrap "><br><br>------ Original Message ------<br>Fr=
om: "Michael MacLean via Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net&=
gt;<br>To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net><br>Sent: =
Thursday, 4 May, 23 At 10:14<br>Subject: [Spridgets] 1275 Rod Knock Update<=
br><br><div dir=3D"auto">Took compression readings of the 1275 engine in my=
Bugeye as the start of the rod knock diagnosis. Not good. No 1 was 110 p=
si, No 2 - 90 psi, No 3 - 80 psi and No 4 was 110 psi. Which means none =
of them are up to snuff. Also found the spark plug wire for number 3 cylin=
der had fallen out if the distributor. I plugged it back in and started th=
e engine. It idled smoother, but under acceleration the knock was still th=
ere and definitely coming from the block. All this with only 3 - 4 thousan=
d miles since the swap from 948 to 1275. Next will be the oil in the cylin=
ders and retake the compression test to see if the low compression is due t=
o the valves. Might as well figure a head rebuild too. $$$$$$$$$$$$<div d=
ir=3D"auto">Mike MacLean</div></div> <hr>------------------------<br>
=
<br>
<span class=3D"wt_Email">spridgets@autox.team.net</span><span></s=
pan><br>
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y@btinternet.com</a><br>
</blockquote></div></div></body></html>
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