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Hi Chuck,
My Sprite's fan comes on automatically at 220F/105C approx so I've
generally switched it manually long before then (did the (overdue)
bi-annual coolant change on the Sprite yesterday so ran it up to the fan
switching temp and noted it for you).
if you have a Metric tap (M12?) and I piece of scrap copper or brass you
could make a boss to solder onto the Sprite rad.
If you had a steel weld bung threaded M12 you could weld it into the cross
tube.
Not sure why you are putting the heater tapping coolant into the thermostat
- I've always just put mine back into water hose.
Are the aluminium thermostat housings expensive in the USA?
Regards
Daniel
On Sat, 14 Dec 2019 at 23:00, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <
spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
> First , thank everyone for positive input on this.
> I am installing the temp. gauge sender in the cylinder head.
> Years ago I had a 1940 Chevy coupe street rod. It had a Flexilite brand
> adjustable temperature sensor to turn on the cooling fan. It's sensor bu=
lb
> went into a rubber arc'd piece that allowed the sensor to be placed into
> coolant where a radiator hose slpped onto a hose nipple. I had it locat=
ed
> at the thermostat housing. I'm leaning towards something like that.
> Most modern temperature sensors are designed for 195=C2=B0 as an initial=
"on"
> temperature. Also most I could find at the local junk yard are going to
> be very modern and the bung they screw into would be a plastic radiator.
> I'm using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator. If I had a decent temp swit=
ch
> ( 180=C2=B0 or lower?) And a copper/ brass bun g , I could solder it into=
the
> radiator end tank. Or possibly into the lower coolant cross tube . Yes=
I
> know the hotter coolant is on top not on the bottom. Possibly on top of
> the thermostat housing , although the rear of head heater tap is going to
> be a bypass up to the thermostat housing which may make that casting a bi=
t
> "busy" for a thermostatic switch mount. Those cast iron cross flow
> thermostat housings are awfully heavy and rather thin in the domed area
> over the thermostat. I'd use an alloy one of I had one that pointed the
> right way.... As of this writing I'm committed to using the cast iron on=
e
> and brazing a 90=C2=B0 fitting on top for the coolant bypass back to the =
heater
> port on the head. I'd love to do it with AN fittings and cool braided ho=
se
> , considering the "we tight" budget , that's not happening.
> My radiator guy is 1.5 hours away and he might have a copper or brass bun=
g
> ( he mu st have 500+ junk radiator that he uses for pieces to modify
> radiators for customers) but too far to drive on a gamble. I could shop
> old foreign cars in our local pick-N-pull ( our "breakers") and test them
> for what temperature they make contact to close a circut. Somewhere I
> remember the old VW's ( rabbit & Scirocco days) had pretty reliable sendi=
ng
> units. I need to do some research looking into early electric cooling f=
an
> system operating temperatures or pressures ( higher pressure systems
> traditionally were higher temperature systems from past experiences).
> More to come as I get more input.
> Chuck
> *Sent from my LG Mobile*
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Chuck,<div><br></div><div>My Sprite's fan comes on =
automatically at 220F/105C approx so I've generally switched it manuall=
y long before then (did the (overdue) bi-annual coolant change on the Sprit=
e yesterday so ran it up to the fan switching temp and noted it for you).</=
div><div><br></div><div>if you have a Metric tap (M12?) and I piece of scra=
p copper or brass you could make a boss to solder onto the Sprite rad.</div=
><div><br></div><div>If you had a steel weld bung threaded M12 you could we=
ld it into the cross tube.</div><div><br></div><div>Not sure why you are pu=
tting the heater tapping coolant into the thermostat - I've always just=
put mine back into water hose.</div><div><br></div><div>Are the aluminium =
thermostat housings expensive in the USA?</div><div><br></div><div>Regards<=
/div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Daniel</div></div><br><div class=3D=
"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, 14 Dec 2019 at =
23:00, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-size:10pt"><div dir=3D"auto">First , thank everyone =
for positive input on this.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I am installing the temp=
. gauge sender in the cylinder head.=C2=A0 =C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">Ye=
ars ago I had a 1940 Chevy coupe street rod.=C2=A0 =C2=A0It had a Flexilite=
brand adjustable temperature sensor to turn on the cooling fan.=C2=A0 It&#=
39;s sensor bulb went into a rubber arc'd piece that allowed the sensor=
to be placed into coolant where a radiator hose slpped onto a hose nipple.=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0I had it located at the thermostat housing.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I'=
m leaning towards something like that.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Most modern temperature =
sensors are designed for 195=C2=B0 as an initial "on" temperature=
.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Also most I could find at the local junk yard are going to be=
very modern and the bung they screw into would be a plastic radiator.=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0I'm using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator.=C2=A0 If I had a =
decent temp switch ( 180=C2=B0 or lower?) And a copper/ brass bun
g , I could solder it into the radiator end tank.=C2=A0 Or possibly into t=
he lower coolant cross tube .=C2=A0 =C2=A0Yes I know the hotter coolant is =
on top not on the bottom.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Possibly on top of the thermostat hou=
sing , although the rear of head heater tap is going to be a bypass up to t=
he thermostat housing which may make that casting a bit "busy" fo=
r a thermostatic switch mount.=C2=A0 Those cast iron cross flow thermostat =
housings are awfully heavy and rather thin in the domed area over the therm=
ostat.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I'd use an alloy one of I had one that pointed the r=
ight way....=C2=A0 As of this writing I'm committed to using the cast i=
ron one and brazing a 90=C2=B0 fitting on top for the coolant bypass back t=
o the heater port on the head.=C2=A0 I'd love to do it with AN fittings=
and cool braided hose , considering the "we tight" budget , that=
's not happening.=C2=A0 =C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">My radiator guy i=
s 1.5 hours away and he might have a copper or brass bung ( he mu
st have 500+ junk radiator that he uses for pieces to modify radiators for=
customers) but too far to drive on a gamble.=C2=A0 I could shop old foreig=
n cars in our local pick-N-pull ( our "breakers") and test them f=
or what temperature they make contact to close a circut.=C2=A0 Somewhere I =
remember the old VW's ( rabbit & Scirocco days) had pretty reliable=
sending units.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I need to do some research looking into early e=
lectric cooling fan system operating temperatures or pressures ( higher pre=
ssure systems traditionally were higher temperature systems from past exper=
iences).</div><div dir=3D"auto">More to come as I get more input.</div><div=
dir=3D"auto">Chuck</div><div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:9pt"><i>=
Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div>
</div>------------------------<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets"; rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets</a>=C2=A0 <a=
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank=
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ets/weslake1330@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330@gmail.com</a><br>
</blockquote></div>
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