spridgets
[Top] [All Lists]

[Spridgets] Spridget rear axle

To: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spridgets] Spridget rear axle
From: Mike Rambour via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 11:56:02 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/38.2.0 please include it with any abuse report
  Since I put in a 1098 motor/gearbox into my Singer, I am considering 
going from a Singer rear axle to a Spridget rear axle to improve freeway 
speeds.

  The Singer rear is 5.25 ratio and I have  4.22 Spridget rear sitting 
around, I also am thinking of a 3.9 if I can find one.

  So, I found a article written by someone (who am I trying to contact 
via snail mail) that says the BMC/MOWOG A-series diff carrier will fit 
into a Singer housing with both housings having the same number of bolts 
and PCD.  The machining to make it fit is super minor, just a few 
thousands taken off the carrier diameter where it slides into the 
housing OR opening up the Singer housing those few thou.

  The confusing part for me is the next statement "The number of splines 
is different between the 2 makes of axles, the axles can be cut and the 
MOWOG splined end joined to the Singer part with the flange"  This 
implies to me cutting and welding the axles which may increase the 
chances of breaking axles.

  What I was hoping to do when I started this project was find Spridget 
wire wheel axles and cut new splines into them but I now think they may 
be too short for that, the Sprite axles are going to only be a tiny bit 
longer (exact difference is unknown to me at this time) and that may be 
why he is suggesting cutting and welding.   My experience with welded 
axles is not good but I have to admit that the welds were done back in 
the 1960's by some backyard welder on a previous car, perhaps a pro 
would be fine.  Another thought would be to take both axles to a shop 
and $pend lot$ of money to have new axles made with Singer ends on one 
end and Sprite on the other, these would be much stronger but since I am 
only fitting a 1098 I think its overkill.  I am also concerned that 
assuming I can cut new splines in the Sprite axles the other end might 
not fit/work, I don't know how the bearing carrier, etc. attaches so 
perhaps as I type this, maybe welding is better.

  My goal is to use the original Singer rear axle housing and the 
original back plates so I do not have to switch brake parts, I spent a 
HUGE amount of money on new finned aluminum brake drums as per the 
originals and if I swapped axle housings, I would end up with Sprite 
brakes, trying to stay original looking and besides I don't want to 
throw away the rather large sum of cash I spent on the new brake drums.  
I did consider using a Spridget rear housing also as the rear wheel 
track is only 1/4" different between the 2 cars but the axle housing are 
several inches different and then the back plate issues made it difficult.

  Luckily I do have 2 spare Singer axle shafts sitting out of the car to 
measure and play with but no Sprite axle shafts.

  My ultimate goal is to make this 1934 Singer Le Mans my daily driver 
so I am swapping out the old (beyond rebuild block) motor and putting in 
Spridget components, I only have to drive 7 miles to work, 5.5 of those 
on the freeway or if not feasible stay on city streets and I will not be 
getting rid of my motorcycle for rainy days and when the Singer is not 
running, so not everyday daily driver.

     mike
------------------------

spridgets@autox.team.net


Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>