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Are you sure?
If the differential includes the ring and pinion but without the
assembly/pumpkin then the pinion is a loose item because it's not fixed to
anything.
The ring or crownwheel is bolted to the differential but the pinion is
bolted into the pumpkin.
In a message dated 10/05/2015 16:06:50 GMT Daylight Time, derf247@gmail.com
writes:
What we call the differential includes the ring and pinion. The assembly,
or pumpkin, is what he needs.
On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 10:03 AM, <_WeslakeMonza1330@aol.com_
(mailto:WeslakeMonza1330@aol.com) > wrote:
Not exactly!
The differential doesn't change the gearing of the rear axle. The gearing
of the rear axle is down to the ring and pinion or what we call over in
the UK, the crownwheel and pinion.
You want the ring and pinion fitted to the differential component and all
fitted together in the differential as a single large component - what I
believe you call the pumpkin. Probably your best bet is to simply buy a good
3.9 from Alan Fisher who is having a clear out.
Changing the axle ratio doesn't improve the performance of the car it
simply changes the gearing. To reduce the engine rpm for any given speed in
4th
gear you need to replace the 4.22 diff with the 3.9 diff or fit a 5 speed
gearbox with either.
If your car is struggling to maintain 70 mph you need to understand if
this is because the engine is really revving out (might have a diff lower than
a 4.2 like a 4.5 or lower from a Morris Minor or whatever) or if the
engine is simply not running well enough to get up the required revs.
Regards
Daniel
PS: there are books with this stuff in...
In a message dated 10/05/2015 15:51:41 GMT Daylight Time,
_spridgets@autox.team.net_ (mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net) writes:
You only need the Differential which goes inside the pumpkin and rear
axle. As Derf said you want one that has 10/39 on the top of the differential
case but check yours first to see which you have now! There were at least
3 available. Early cars were 4.22 to 1, then there is 3.9 to 1 and the
shorter 4.22 to 1. The 4.22 is great for autocross - the taller geared 3.77
for highway use. As was noted, the taller gears are getting hard to find
and usually demand a suitable hunk of cash.
If you find a 3.9 or 3.77 that's inside a rear axle case and the seller
won't part it out, buy the whole thing. You'll need help picking it up!!
DAMHIK....
Cheers!
Jim
On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 9:29 AM, derf via Spridgets
<_spridgets@autox.team.net_ (mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net) > wrote:
I know the basics but will have to defer on the details. This is where
Frank would chime in and sort it all out. There are others who know and
share, but none like him. Really miss that guy.
On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 9:22 AM, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets
<_spridgets@autox.team.net_ (mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net) > wrote:
So if I go to carlisle import show next weekend what should I be on the
lookout for or what should I avoid? looking for rear pumpkin or whole rear
axle? how can I tell if possible whats good and whats crap?
Thanks
Ryan
____________________________________
From: "derf" <_derf247@gmail.com_ (mailto:derf247@gmail.com) >
To: "Ryan Kubanoff" <_ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net_
(mailto:ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net) >
Cc: "spridgets" <_spridgets@autox.team.net_
(mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net) >
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 8:39:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] More highway speed for a bugeye?
You might also look into stronger axle shafts while you're doing rear end
work. Any Spridget diff chunk should fit in your rear housing. Just drop
the drive shaft, pop the axles out, and swap the chunk. Diff ratios are
stamped on top of the chunk. "10/39" is 3.9. IIRC "9/38" is what you would
have on your 4.22.
On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 5:59 AM, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets
<_spridgets@autox.team.net_ (mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net) > wrote:
So i have a 74 midget with a 1275, rib case, and a stock rear that will do
70+ on a highway no problem. Last year I bought a 60 bugeye that was
modiifed by the previous owner to have a 998 cc motor, rib case and a stock
bugeye rear. It has more trouble with highway speeds. Could I swap out the
stock bugeye rear for a late model midgets? Would that improve
performance?
Thanks
Ryan
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR:=
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bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Dr=
ole_document=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>Are you sure? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If the differential includes the ring and pinion but without the=20
assembly/pumpkin then the pinion is a loose item because it's not fixed to=
=20
anything. The ring or crownwheel is bolted to the differential but=
the=20
pinion is bolted into the pumpkin.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 10/05/2015 16:06:50 GMT Daylight Time, derf247@gma=
il.com=20
writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
><FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>What we call the differential includes the ring and pinio=
n. =20
The assembly, or pumpkin, is what he needs. <BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 10:03 AM, <SPAN dir=3Dl=
tr><<A=20
title=3Dmailto:WeslakeMonza1330@aol.com href=3D"mailto:WeslakeMonza1330@=
aol.com"=20
target=3D_blank>WeslakeMonza1330@aol.com</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc=
1px solid"><U></U>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000"><FO=
NT=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>Not exactly!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The differential doesn't change the gearing of the rear axle.&nbs=
p; The=20
gearing of the rear axle is down to the ring and pinion or what we cal=
l over=20
in the UK, the crownwheel and pinion.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>You want the ring and pinion fitted to the differential component=
and=20
all fitted together in the differential as a single large component -=
what I=20
believe you call the pumpkin. Probably your best bet is to simpl=
y buy=20
a good 3.9 from Alan Fisher who is having a clear out.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Changing the axle ratio doesn't improve the performance of the ca=
r it=20
simply changes the gearing. To reduce the engine rpm for any given spe=
ed in=20
4th gear you need to replace the 4.22 diff with the 3.9 diff or fit a=
5=20
speed gearbox with either.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If your car is struggling to maintain 70 mph you need to understa=
nd if=20
this is because the engine is really revving out (might have a diff lo=
wer=20
than a 4.2 like a 4.5 or lower from a Morris Minor or whatever) or if=
the=20
engine is simply not running well enough to get up the required revs.<=
/DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Regards</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Daniel</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>PS: there are books with this stuff in...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN>
<DIV>In a message dated 10/05/2015 15:51:41 GMT Daylight Time, <A=20
title=3Dmailto:spridgets@autox.team.net href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox=
.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>spridgets@autox.team.net</A> writes:</DIV></SPAN>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px so=
lid"><FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2=20
face=3DArial><SPAN>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>You only need the Differential which goes inside the pumpkin an=
d rear=20
axle. As Derf said you want one that has 10/39 on the top of=
the=20
differential case but check yours first to see which you have now!&n=
bsp;=20
There were at least 3 available. Early cars were 4.22 to 1, th=
en=20
there is 3.9 to 1 and the shorter 4.22 to 1. The 4.22 is great=
for=20
autocross - the taller geared 3.77 for highway use. As=
was=20
noted, the taller gears are getting hard to find and usually demand=
a=20
suitable hunk of cash.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>If you find a 3.9 or 3.77 that's inside a rear axle case and th=
e=20
seller won't part it out, buy the whole thing. You'll need hel=
p=20
picking it up!! DAMHIK....</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Cheers!</DIV>
<DIV>Jim</DIV></DIV></SPAN>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote><SPAN>On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 9:29 AM, derf=
via=20
Spridgets <SPAN dir=3Dltr><<A title=3Dmailto:spridgets@autox.team=
.net=20
href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>spridgets@autox.team.net</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR></=
SPAN>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT:=
#ccc 1px solid"><SPAN>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>I know the basics but will have to defer on the=20
details. This is where Frank would chime in and sort it all=
=20
out. There are others who know and share, but none like him.=
=20
Really miss that guy. <BR></DIV></SPAN><SPAN>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 9:22 AM, ryan.kub=
anoff---=20
via Spridgets <SPAN dir=3Dltr><<A title=3Dmailto:spridgets@auto=
x.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>spridgets@autox.team.net</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT=
: #ccc 1px solid">
<DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #00000=
0">
<DIV>So if I go to carlisle import show next weekend what should=
I be=20
on the lookout for or what should I avoid? looking for rea=
r=20
pumpkin or whole rear axle? how can I tell if possible whats goo=
d and=20
whats crap?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks </DIV>
<DIV>Ryan</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<HR>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: He=
lvetica,Arial,sans-serif; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000; FONT-STYLE: no=
rmal"><B>From:=20
</B>"derf" <<A title=3Dmailto:derf247@gmail.com=20
href=3D"mailto:derf247@gmail.com"=20
target=3D_blank>derf247@gmail.com</A>><BR><B>To: </B>"Ryan Ku=
banoff"=20
<<A title=3Dmailto:ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net=20
href=3D"mailto:ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net"=20
target=3D_blank>ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net</A>><BR><B>Cc:=20
</B>"spridgets" <<A title=3Dmailto:spridgets@autox.team.net=
=20
href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>spridgets@autox.team.net</A>><BR><B>Sent: </B=
>Sunday,=20
May 10, 2015 8:39:29 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: [Spridgets] More=
=20
highway speed for a bugeye?=20
<DIV>
<DIV><BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>You might also look into stronger axle shafts whi=
le=20
you're doing rear end work. Any Spridget diff chunk should=
fit=20
in your rear housing. Just drop the drive shaft, pop the=
axles=20
out, and swap the chunk. Diff ratios are stamped on top of=
the=20
chunk. "10/39" is 3.9. IIRC "9/38" is what you would have=
on=20
your 4.22.<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 5:59 AM,=20
ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets <SPAN dir=3Dltr><<A=20
title=3Dmailto:spridgets@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>spridgets@autox.team.net</A>></SPAN> wrote:<B=
R>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LE=
FT: #ccc 1px solid">
<DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000=
000">
<DIV>So i have a 74 midget with a 1275, rib case, and a stock=
rear=20
that will do 70+ on a highway no problem. Last year I bo=
ught a=20
60 bugeye that was modiifed by the previous owner to have a 99=
8 cc=20
motor, rib case and a stock bugeye rear. It has mo=
re=20
trouble with highway speeds. Could I swap out the stock=
bugeye=20
rear for a late model midgets? Would that improve=20
performance?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks</DIV><SPAN><SPAN style=3D"COLOR: #888888" color=3D=
"#888888">
<DIV>Ryan</DIV></SPAN></SPAN></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></=
DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></S=
PAN></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOC=
KQUOTE></DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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