Hi Michael- When did it knock, at idle, or only at higher rpms? -and did you
have good oil pressure at various engine speeds? Just my $0.02, but if I was
trying to track the knock down, I would first check the top end: valve lash
(which would be an indicator of valve issues), worn rocker bushes, etc. On the
bottom end, check each rod and main bearing clearance, one at at a time, with
plastigage, and while each rod is free, wiggle it around in all directions, and
up and down, to check for play/worn wristpin, or broken/damaged/excessively
worn piston. Also check thrust bearing clearance (fore and aft). Let us know
what you find-
Patrick
Kailua, HI
---- Michael Rowe via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
> I am finally getting around to looking at the 1098 engine I pulled from the
> Holy Sprite because it was making fatal knocking noises somewhere in the
> rear. (Note that this does not mean that the @#$% new engine has started!)
> I thought that it might be inadequate torquing and/or a broken bearing.
> There are no pieces in the pan. Maybe a bent valve shaft.
>
> The valve cover and pan are off, and I can easily turn the engine over with
> a wrench. I find nothing obviously loose or otherwise amiss. It does not
> rattle when turned sharply back and forth.
>
> Is there something that might knock under load when the engine is running
> well, but not under no load on the stand? If I take the head off, will valve
> problems be obvious?
>
> Michael Rowe
> The Holy Sprite
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