A long as you are thinking transplant why not drop in a modern motor and trans
that is easy to get parts for and common enough to be inexpensive. Iv'e done
Datsun motor in a Morris Minor but the little Datsun motors are getting
harder to mind.
Take your tape measure to the local wrecking yard. Or check what other cars
that use a similar sized motor have used for transplants.
Paul Van Wig
Big Bear/Long Beach, CA
facebook.com/pvanwig
1959 Nash Metropolitan "Tiffany" (the wife's fun ride)
1968 Morris Minor Woody RHD "Thomas"
1960 Bug Eye (awaiting restoration)
1980 CJ7 Lives @ 7440'
2012 Turbo Diesel Ram 2500 4X4
2003 Toyota 4Runner (the wife's Mountain car)
2012 Cadillac SRX 3.6 (the wife's work ride)
On May 18, 2013, at 11:20 AM, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com> wrote:
11 years ago I was a younger man (pretty interesting eh ?) and I had a
unique opportunity to buy a very rare 1934 Singer and when you already own a
1934 Singer and say this one is rare you know its unique.
I have not touched this Singer because I did not want to have 2 cars apart at
the same time and so I told people it was going to be my retirement project,
well retirement is too far away and I want it on the road. The reason I
mentioned something about being younger is that as I have gotten older, I no
longer enjoy the moments broken down on the side of the road and I enjoy the
trouble free driving more so I am thinking of doing a engine swap.
The original motor is a 1493cc 6 cylinder motor of early 1930's technology (59
mm. by 91 mm bore-stroke) and I have no idea the HP rating of it but it can't
be very high. The gearbox is a crashbox with four speeds with ratios 5.22,
6.65, 10.68 and 19.43 to 1 and 26.4:1 reverse with silent second and third
gears, no idea the rear axle ratio. Fueled by twin Solex sidedraft carbs.
The motor has had cracks brazed in the side of the block on both sides, the
freeze plugs corroded out decades ago and were covered by bondo (yes Bondo) to
prevent leaks I assume. I removed the oil pan and found wood screws jammed
into the block because the oil pan studs were broken so they drilled small
holes and used wood screws. The oil pump strainer was cut off (presumably to
increase oil pressure after too much sludge plugged up the strainer) and there
appears to be a crack between the number 2 and 3 cylinders which allows
coolant into the oil sump. The motor can be fixed but its ridiculously
expensive and I want reliability.
I have a Spridget 1275 complete with carbs and gearbox, I have no idea the
year but it has a 10CG (or is it 10GG?) head which implies its a later 1275
motor, no idea of its real condition but its free turning and just turning by
hand appears to have compression in all 4 cylinders, of course a full rebuild
is in order.
I am thinking a newer 1275 will have more HP than a 1930's 1500 motor, it will
also be lighter and extremely very easily fit into the chassis with no
permanent mods to the Singer and that the 1275 motor would work well in this
car. When I have done motor swaps it was usually to make a hot rod with much
larger more powerful motors, I have never gone down in size before am I stupid
to try this ? should I find a 1500 motor from some other make ? There is one
of these cars in New Zealand with a VW 2Litre from a modern car in it but they
also swapped the rear axle and I want to avoid that.
My goal would be to make it reliable and be able to get to freeway speeds so I
can take it places, if it takes a while to get to that speed that is ok with
me.
Wow, long message...
mike
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