Dean,
There is plenty of sound science behind these warnings on ethanol but it hs
been surpressed by the government and the ethanol industry. Try this...
http://newcarbuyingguide.com/index.php/news/main/5700/event=view
I quote Bill Siuru, PhD, Automotive Engineering:
"If you own an older vehicle, one built before the mid-1980s, you are more
likely to experience problems with even small amounts of alcohol, even E10.
A big problem is deterioration or swelling and hardening of rubber
components like fuel hoses, carburetor seals and gaskets, and fuel pump
seals. when in contact with ethanol. This may lead to fuel leaks. The
solution is replacement of components with ethanol compatible ones. Trying
to find and use non-ethanol fuel will be difficult.
Because ethanol absorbs water more readily, this can be especially
troublesome with vehicles that sit idle for extended periods. It can cause
rust in metal components such as fuel tanks. It can also cause pitting of
metal parts. If you plan to store a vehicle, run the tank dry before
storing.
While not usually a problem in vehicles, even low concentrations of ethanol
can damage fiberglass fuel tanks such as used in boats. Ethanol dissolves
the lining of fiberglass fuel tanks, often depositing a dark "sludge" inside
marine engines causing costly damage. Eventually, fiberglass tanks dissolve
until they fail, leaking fuel."
Owners of 1980s & 1990s K model BMW motorcycle (like me) are intimately
aware of the dangers of ethanol in fuel. First, it is hygroscopic meaning
that it attracts water. Like crazy. You then get gelatinous "globs" in the
bottom of your fuel tank which plug fuel filters and transport water through
the fuel system (corrosion and rusting out of things like metal fuel pump
diaphragms - ask Dave W.). It also eats rubber and plastic over time so that
immersible fuel pumps (K model BMWs) suddenly overheat and fry (about $700
apiece). Even my wife's 2006 Silverado PU with submersible fuel pump warns
about excessive ethanol use (like E85) and requires periodic draining of the
fuel tank to get the ethanol formed globs out. IN the old days, gas and
water stayed separate - no problem. But not when there is ethanol (even E10)
in the mix.
Continue using it at your own risk.
Cheers!!
Jim
On Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 12:50 AM, Dean Hedin <dlh2001 at comcast.net> wrote:
> How old was the pump?
>
> I don't doubt that ethanol has an impact. I just don't believe
> the problem is as bad as made out to be.
>
> By definition that guy in the video is working on 40+ year old cars.
> Of course he is going to see a lot of dried out rubber.
>
> It doesn't mean the ethanol did it.
>
> Ethanol most certainly did not rot out his vacuum advance diaphragm either.
> That was just age.
>
> Shellac painted cork floats, yeah, that is probably an issue with ethanol.
> But even after 40 years in gas I wouldn't trust them.
>
> Just plain air will rot rubber and old cars often sit for protracted
> periods
> of time and the fuel evaporates out of the carbs. The next thing you know
> the rubber is dried out.
>
> I need to see something more scientific. Like some sort of accelerated
> life
> test.
>
> The only solid data I have heard about was ethanol's negative impact on
> certain plastics. Not rubber.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: On Behalf Of Woerpel
> Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 6:54 PM
> To: SPRIDGETS
> Subject: [Spridgets] ethanol
>
> Thought this interesting. I use no-ethanol premium. Ethanol cost me
> the diaphragm in Bugeye's mechanical fuel pump.
>
> *
> http://www.historicvehicle.org/Latest-News/September-2011/2011/09/22/Under-
> hood-ethanol-classic-car
>
> *or*
>
> http://tinyurl.com/44nyuzn
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