Garage Flooring, I built a new garage a few years back, as I'm in the flooring
business I was going to use commercial floor tile, black and white checker,
been done, no I though a British Flag design. That would look great I thought
to myself, after thinking about it some more, no, who's going to clean and wax
it down the road. Not me. I also knew I was tired of laying on a cold concrete
floor. I had a customer the previous year that bought a large order of
commercial carpet that we installed, very expensive stuff. Then I got a call,
the carpet got a little wet, they were so afraid of mold, they had me rip it
out and install floor tile. As this carpet was totally synthetic mold wasn't
an issue, guess were that carpet is now, yep, my garage is carpeted, open the
door and use the leaf blower, I love it, down four years now, heck you can
take a nap on it. I love it even more now that the 4 post lift is here.
Oh, I have another building that I weld in, rubber drip mats do the trick. So
no welding, and no painting, but everything else.
Charlie Reel
> From: edwd@ti.com
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 00:27:21 -0500
> Subject: [Spridgets] Non stick concrete surface
>
> BZ- 10 years ago I painted my shop floor with a 2-part epoxy paint that has
been nothing short of amazing. It has had every type of fluif spilled upon it
and I even had a small puddle of gas catch fire and it didn't even discolor.
However, if I recall correctly, it is not made for direct UV exposure. 10
years is a long time though, so perhaps they have a formulation that will fit
your application. It is imperative that you etch the concrete with muriatic
acid before you apply whatever finish you end up with, this I know to be true.
Then rinse and re-rinse. There are non-slip additives that you can either put
into the paint or sprinkle on top. I should have heeded that advice as my
floor is slicker than snot when wet. Go to a paint contractor supply store and
explain your need. They are not only less expensive (50 percent) than Home
Depot, but they know their product since no contractor wants return calls for
a finish that hasn't held. Also, if you go with epoxy, sp
> end the 10 bucks or so for a mixer that you can chuck up to an electric
drill, full and complete mixing is critical. Buy application tools that can be
discarded, there is no cleanup, tried it, even with the recommended solvent.
Rollers and brushes are cheap though, and the flow of the product will show no
stroke marks. Let it cure a week, scratch it with 80 grit or even 60 on a wall
board sander (I got about a thimble full of dust from a 30x50 floor) and
second coat it with application 90 degrees from the first coat.
>
> Another option could be a ceramic tile that is 'pebbled' for that natural
slate look, it is relatively slip resistant.
> Good luck, and let us know what you find out please, my back patio is gonna
need something someday soon.
>
> Ed
> Dallas, Tx
> _______________________________________________
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/creel906@msn.com
_______________________________________________
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
|