Also, to do the gasket, a little bit of RTV between the pan and the gasket
help, then set the pan upside down to dry the RTV with a few bolts in the
holes from the backside. When you're done, it will be all set to install. The
end gaskets work randomly no matter how you install them.
Ron
--- On Sat,
3/12/11, Ron Soave <soavero@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Ron Soave
<soavero@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Bearings Replacement
> To:
spridgets@autox.team.net, "Bert Shirey" <bertshirey@zoominternet.net>
> Date:
Saturday, March 12, 2011, 10:03 AM
> --- On Sat, 3/12/11, Bert Shirey
>
<bertshirey@zoominternet.net>
> wrote:
> > From: Bert Shirey
<bertshirey@zoominternet.net>
> > What is a source for good quality
> >
bearings ? I don`t want to end up doing
>
> Peter C. is your first stop,
peter@nosimport.com.
> If not, call Rod at Spridgetech, he can probably hook
you up
> with Vandervells or Clevites. Worst case, the AE tri-metals
> or King
Israeli made tri-metals are good for street use.
>
> Changing the bearings
with motor installed is easy. The pan
> is easily accessible. Drain the oil.
Use a wrench to crack
> each bolt on the pan, there are 13 or 14 of them, then
use a
> drill with a screwdriver bit to remove the 1/4 - 28 bolts.
> Save the
oval washers/ (even a simple cordlass screwdriver
> on an extension works).
The pan will come off pretty easily,
> if it doesn't you left one of the fore
or aft bolts in. I
> have had clean oil drain and found shattered bearings in
the
> pan, so don't assume clean oil means you're done. Remove the
> pickup
with a 15/16" (I'm pretty sure) open end and 7/16"
> for the ears that bolt
into the bearing caps. You can take
> off the screen by undo-ing the 2 nuts on
the back side of
> the pickup, so do that and give it a cleaning.
>
> The
first bearing to wear is #4, start there. Rotate the
> crank to bring the
piston down (PULL THE SPARK PLUGS first!!
> Much easier with no compression)
Undo the rod nuts, nudge
> the bearing cap off and inspect/change the bearing.
Rotating
> the crank a bit helps. To get the other half off, push the
> rod up
in the cylinder and you can pop off the bearing.
> Repeat as necessary. For
the mains, start with #2 and you'll
> change the thrust washers as well while
you're in there. #3
> main reguires pulling the motor and removing the
flywheel
> and rear plate. If #2 is good, chances are #'s 1 and 3 are
> also.
>
> Good luck - hope that helps,
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
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