Right, that's the method I described in my earlier post and that's what I
intend to do.
My point is all the incorrect ways to do this axle conversion that are
floated about:
1) You can't just swap the axles in. You will eventually sheer the splines.
See John's post.
2) Taking a true wire wheel axle, cutting off all the half elliptic mounts
and flanges, and then
re-welding quarter elliptic mounts and flanges so you can put in a Bugeye
HAS BEEN DONE!
MORE THAN ONCE! I won't mention any names, but if they are listening in I
am sure they are
reading this thread with great interest.
3) Cutting the hub off the axle to make an "adapter". Yea, that might work,
but I think pressing
the axles is easier than cutting and machining, plus you won't be destroying
a perfectly good
set of axles.
I definitely concur on the Welch plugs. I removed mine by drilling a small
hole
in the center and then screwing in a long drywall screw. I then grabbed the
head
of the screw in the vise and then tapped the axle with Crystal Blue
Persuasion
(the affectionate name of my large, soft faced mallet) Moss sells
replacements.
But I will probably turn something on the lathe.
_____
From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrick@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:51 AM
To: Spridgets; Dean Hedin; fastvee
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Wire wheel conversion and the rear axles.
When I converted my bugeye to wire wheels I air chiseled the welch plug out
from inside the wire wheel hub and pressed the axle out to match the length
of the disc wheel axle (about 3/4-5/8") This allows the splines to fully
engage in the diff. Haven't noticed any problems. BTW, you need to replace
the welch plug with a new one or an appropriately sized rubber ball or
you'll leak gear oil all over your brake shoes.
Rick
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