Michael,
Try a Stant/Tridon 550 flasher, put the buzzer from the lamp output terminal
"P" to ground. Not sure what you mean by parallel, if you have it from the
"B" terminal to the "L" it will try to source the voltage to the lamps when
the flasher is open but the signals on. That would burn out the buzzer.
BTW, the Lucas "B" terminal is the same as the "X" terminal on the Stant 550
the "L" and "P" terminals are labeled the same on both.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Rowe" <mdrowe@optonline.net>
To: "SPRIDGETS" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:19 PM
Subject: [Spridgets] Blinker
My turn signal return does not work, so I put in a tiny Radio Shack buzzer
in parallel across the terminals of the flasher can. This worked fine for a
month or so, with the buzzer sounding when the flasher was open, and quiet
when the flasher was closed (no potential). Then the flasher stopped
opening, and several new flasher cans lasted shorter intervals, one of them
only one day. I have determined that the current/voltage is enough to power
the flasher alone or the buzzer alone, but not both. With the buzzer
attached, the flasher does not heat enough to open, and the buzzer does not
get enough current to make noise.
I really don't understand how a buzzer 1/2" in diameter with really fine
wires can steal enough power to prevent the flasher from heating. I measure
13v at the can. Any thoughts?
Michael Rowe
'74 Midget
'60 Sprite kit
Long Island, NY
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