Hi Folks...
First, I downloaded the tuning instructions from <www.sucarb.co.uk>
under "Technical" --- A Big "Thank You" to them for including some
well illustrated diagrams... I then read them three times!!
Next, I must own up to having assumed that the previous owner(s) had
at least got the carb mechanical settings partially right.... my
mistake.
Here's what I found and corrected..
1) I could find no air leaks and all carb and manifold nuts nice and
tight.
BUT...
2) The choke cable had zero play. It was actually holding the rear
cold start cam part way on. Reset the cable clamp to have to 1/16"
free play at the choke knob..
3) Also, the rear carbs' fast idle (cold start) screw was hard up
against the cam. Turned it ccw until it was well clear...
2 & 3 together meant that the rear carb was being held on the rich
side and gave me a false setting of the jet height...
4) The rear car needle was a bit off... not seated correctly. Minor
problem. Reset!
5) The throttle inter-connection spindle was not set correctly... the
rear carb butterfly was being held a bit open by the front
butterfly... reset!
Went through the tuning proceedure from step one in the instructions.
I've ended up with the jet nut sitting at 6 flats down instead of 12
with the same "hiss" from both carbs and idling at about 850 rpm.
Just a bit of an occasional stumble..
Many thanks to you all for your inputs...
Next problem for me to tackle... the fuel guage needle jumps between
1/4 and 3/4 full erratically, seems to depend on the engine rpms...
The (eelectric) tach needle also jumps a little bit
A digital DVM (volt meter) is too slow to follow the voltage from the
regulator..
What can I use to clean the regulator contacts???
--
Dave G. KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
If I wake up in the morning, and I hurt, it means that I'm still
alive !!
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