Hi, DB...I am assuming a Series A
motor?
As you are removing he heater, we'll assume no winter driving and that
heat,
and only heat, is the issue...no winter
stuff.
Emissions applications (and somebody
correct me if I am wrong here, 'cause I've
never run an emissions Series A) usually
run a 190F thermostat, low emissions
and not "power" being the priority. And,
as Dave Vizard points out, 190-200F is
usually where the motor finds "best
economy" fuel mileage as well.
This having been said, there are "summer" stats (68C) which will open
at 165-170 which is where the engine
develops "best power". The next one
down the line allows for running at
180F and the next is 190F.
Maximum cooling can be had with 100%
distilled water. Add a can of proprietary
anti-corrosion/water pump lube.
Further cooling can be had with a "blanking sleeve" in place of a stat.
This is actually more a water "diverter"
and "restrictor" which keeps up flow should you decide to run without a
stat.
Don't run without stat without a "blanking
sleeve"...as some restriction is required
for proper flow.
If you have Daniel Stapleton's excellent
book, you will see a photo of a competition engine under "cooling". You
will note the owner runs w/o a heater and
has fabricated a fitting to the thermostat
cover to provide for the return of water
from the rear block fitting, instead of
bringing it back to the water pump via the
factory "uncooled" manner.
I took a downflow rad. lower hose and
simply cut it while retaining the heater
return "nipple" and use it as a top hose,
to which I've plugged in the heater return
line...same difference with my application
which retains the heater for my car is
used in winter on nice days.
For further cooling, you can block off the
the water bypass between cylinder head
and water pump. A ball bearing of the
correct size within the "connecting"
hose will do the trick.
If you do the above and are using a stat,
you will need to drill a 1/4" hole in the
stat's "base" to provide a water "bypass"
in the event the stat fails in the "closed"
position. Two such holes might be a
better idea.
A couple of capfuls of Water Wetter or
Joy/Ivory dishwashing liquied added to
the coolant wouldn't hurt as this is supposed to aid "heat transfer"
from
coolant to radiator fins/core, etc.
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
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