Well, Peter:
Maybe the calipers and maybe not.
The pads require "friction" with the disc
without the pedal being depressed to get
the pads to "back off" just to the extent
they do not "bind" (a bit) upon the disc
after the brake pedal is released.
So, it you have the car jacked up and
have just released a just depressed brake
pedal, simply turning the
roadwheel will not be a conclusive "test".
This is especially true with new pads which have all their original
"thickness"
and have not worn down even a little bit
("broken in", so to speak).
If the pads were truly binding, overheating
of the disc would occur and would
show itself as "bluing" of the disc...and
your gas mileage would be positively
terrible along with the fact you would most
likely "smell" the heat.
When pads are "broken in" and lose a trifle of their original thickness,
the above
becomes "less" in time to the extent the car should roll freely after a
normal stop if
stopped on even a slight incline. Matter
of fact this is something I look for in normal day to day driving to
assure there
is no binding of brakes at all.
Is there no "slop" (whatsoever) in the brake pedal mechanical linkage
from
(and inclusive of) the master cylinder
pushrod end....pivot points "enlarge"
over use and time?
I ask this only because the fully non-returning brake pedal is usually
a separate issue from what's actually
happening at the wheel though in your
case, this might very well not be the
case and new calipers will solve your
problem.
Just can't help but wonder in view of my
own experiences in these respects!! :)
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
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To: spridgets@autox.team.net, midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com
From Midget1974MG at aol.com
Mailing-List: list midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com; contact
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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:45:03 EDT
Subject: [midgetsprite] No Brake Pedal Return - update
Replaced the pedal return spring and the front rubber hoses.
Still no full return of the pedal.
The old hoses looked fine inside (even dissected them). Still, they were
old.
The calliper pistons seemed to still have firm pressure on the pads even with
the brake hose disconnected. Had to push the pads back off the rotor to get
the hub to turn freely. Should I have had to do that even with no fluid
pressure applied against the pistons?
The callipers didn't look in too good of a shape - old, rusty, bleeder screws
seen better bleeding days, etc. Pads looked fine - as did the rotors.
I believe the callipers need to be rebuilt. So, this week I will take them
up to MGOCs Octagon House in Swavesey and exchange them.
Austin
1974 MG Midget - England
1977 MG B Roadster - Florida
http:// photos.yahoo. com/peterene austin ( no spaces)
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