Bob,
Thanks for your input. I was just trying to start the engine. I went back
over the engine checking timing, plug gap, and ignition. The engine started
but did not run very well. The blower not operating and the long distance
from the carb to the engine head along with the unknown position of the
vanes is probably a contributing factor. Needless to say I think it is time
to abandon the supercharger set up for now before I damage the fresh engine.
Time to dig out the old carbs and rebuild them.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From "Robert E. Shlafer" <PilotRob at webtv.net>
To: "Allen Kramer" <allenk@zdial.com>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: 948 cc engine
> Al-
>
> Assuming the vanes in the supercharger are "free" to turn, starting and
> running without the belt should not be a problem.
>
> The vanes will spin freely with engine vacuum and air "flow" through the
> carb.
>
> Just make sure you oil the vanes
> (at least to some extent) while
> running without the belt as they are still
> turning in the blower bore.
>
> My gut feeling is your starting problem may have nothing whatever to do
> with the blower at all.
>
> Run the normal "checks" you would run for such a problem (timing,
> correct ignition wire hookup, etc.) were you running normally aspirated.
>
> You are very wise to run in the motor without the additional strain of
> boost.
>
> I am doing the same thing with my new
> Rivergate 1293 motor "tailored" for an
> eventual Judson blower installation.
>
> In my case, I am using the regular SU
> carb set-up for engine break-in as I do
> not wish to add Marvel Mystery Oil to
> the combustion chamber while I am breaking in the rings. This might be
> counter-productive in this respect. We
> want to remove as little metal as possible
> but some metal must be removed obviously, or the rings will never
> break-in!
>
> Then again, whatever MMO is added should burn in the combustion process,
> and considering your blower is more or
> less just along for the ride at this point,
> I think it is certainly safe to say a drop of
> MMO every 8 seconds (instead of 4 to
> 5 seconds) should be more than sufficient
> for vane lubrication considering "no load"
> operation.
>
> Incidentally, the free turning vanes in the
> blower will also have a chance to "gently"
> break-in against the bore of the blower
> as they freely turn in "beltless" operation;
> this can only be a "good thing"!
>
> My engine is built to pretty tight tolerances but I feel 3,000 miles of
> normally aspirated operation should suffice in allowing surfaces to
> "mate
> smoothly". The rings broke in during
> the first 100 miles easy. All I experienced
> was higher than normal water temps and
> this "symptom" is already beginning to
> disappear as I pass 600 miles of running,
> though this particular engine's coolant
> warm-up time is still very minimal - nice,
> "tight" motor!!
>
>
>
>
> Cap'n. Bob
> '60 :{)
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