Mike,
If that starter pull cable is getting hot enough to melt, it must be
carrying current between the negative feed to the starter switch and
the dash.
Disconnect the pull cable at the dash and do some checking with a
voltmeter!
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From "Mike Maclean" <macleans at earthlink.net>
To: "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
Cc: "Bryan Vandiver" <bryan.vandiver@sun.com>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: 06 February 2001 22:47
Subject: Re: Huh?
> No other cables getting hot. I have TWO grounds from the engine to
the
> chassis. I firmly believe that the negative battey cable that I
jury rigged an
> extension on is the culprit. (Positve ground car). I will install a
generic
> battery cable of sufficient length from Pep Boys today and report
back to the
> list.
> Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
>
> Mike & Kerry Gigante wrote:
>
> > I reckon Bryan has it. Taking bets?
> >
> > Check the choke cable, that may be getting hot too
> > and if it is, then BINGO!
> >
> > (the earth path should be through a strap from engine to body)
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bryan Vandiver" <bryan.vandiver@sun.com>
> > To: "Mike Maclean" <macleans@earthlink.net>
> > Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 5:24 AM
> > Subject: Re: Huh?
> >
> > > Mike,
> > >
> > > This may be an obvious question, but you do have the ground
strap
> > > connected that goes from the engine to the chassie, under the
car???
> > > (not the one from the battery)
> > > If not, that would explain why it's putting so much current
through the
> > > pull switch. If it is in place, you better check it for
resistance.
> > >
> > > - Bryan
> > >
> > > Mike Maclean wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Today I received a new (repro) starter switch for the Bugeye.
I was
> > > > hoping that this would fix my problem with the overheating
starter pull
> > > > wire. I had already rebuilt the starter, so I installed it
tonight and
> > > > pulled the starter pull knob and watched the wire again.
Well, guess
> > > > what boys and girls, it STILL gets hot! The only component
left in the
> > > > starter circuit that is still in question is the negative
cable from the
> > > > battery to the starter switch. I bought the cable from Norman
Nock. I
> > > > was looking for a helmet head battery cable for the negative
side.
> > > > After many calls, Norman's company in Stockton, California
said they had
> > > > a repro. I ordered it and waited. When it arrived the darn
thing was
> > > > too short. I went to the welding supply store and bought a
length of
> > > > matching type cable. I added about 8 inches to the helmet
head cable by
> > > > intertwining the separate wires beneath the outer sheath and
sweat
> > > > soldering the whole mess together. I then just wrapped
electrical tape
> > > > around the area. Not exactly concours, but I thought it would
work
> > > > until I could find a longer replacement.
> > > > Does the resistance generated by this lousy connection
have
> > > > something to do with the problem? The joint is between the
battery and
> > > > the starter switch, the heat generated in the pull wire is on
the other
> > > > side of the joint. Does that matter?
> > > > Unless someone tells me that my electrical surgery should
not cause
> > > > a problem, tomorrow I will get a generic battery cable of
sufficient
> > > > length and try again. There isn't much left to replace.
> > > > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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