Rich,
Did you torque the head, or the shop???,
What was the torque value, and what lubercant was used on the studs for
torquing?
I'm pretty sure none of the head studs on my 1275 went through to the water
jacket, were the stud hole on your drilled all the way through??
Did you counter sink the stud holes, or have the block skimed to make sure the
metal was not pulled up slightly around the head studs? If not, it could be
that
your head gasket wasn't seated properly, even if the correct torque was used.
When I first rebuilt my engine, I couldn't keep the head from leaking oil, but
since I've rebuilt it, I haven't had a problem at all.
Before you re-install the head, give me a call, and I can tell you what I did
to
keep things from leaking.
- Bryan
>User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.0 (1513)
>Subject: Wet head studs?
>To: spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Mime-version: 1.0
>
>I hope this isn't a really bad one --- It looks like I've got water seeping
>up and out of the head studs on our recently rebuilt 948 engine. I'm hoping
>it's a simple head gasket thing, and really hoping it isn't something more
>complicated/expensive. Any thoughts?
>
>It's a 948 cc engine, new ARP studs, has about 100 miles on it since
>rebuild.
>
>On the bright side, I do have oil pressure that's more reasonable now --
>replaced the new ball with the old plunger and now we have 60 psi (hot)
>rather than a pegged gauge (90 psi+)!
>
>Rich Hill
>'58 AH Sprite
>'79 MG Midget
>
|