Larry,
You're looking at UK Spec engine page. U.S. 1977 and later is 2 degrees ATDC.
Gerard
At 10:51 AM -0400 8/3/00, Larry Macy wrote:
>Bill - Gotta go with Allen here. My Leyland Factory Manual for the 78
>says 10 BTDC.
>
>Larry
>
>At this exact moment in time 8/3/00 10:34, Ajhsys@aol.com made the
>profound statement:
>
>>In a message dated 8/2/00 8:17:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>>wmgilroy@lucent.com writes:
>>
>><< I got my 77 Midget running today but I am having some problems as
>> usual. The car starts when hot, but is very hard to start when
>> cold. A bit of gas in the carb helps greatly. >>
>>
>>Sounds like the choke isn't closing. You might want to consider a manual
>>choke conversion. They are a lot more reliable.
>>
>><< I cannot get
>> the car to idle below 1200 RPM. When at an idle the RPM hunts
>> around by maybe 200 RPM. The timing also fluctuates with the
>> RPM. >>
>>
>>The timing is fluctuating because the vacuum advance is advancing as the
>>RPMs
>>go up. (Or is that RsPM? Grammar nazis, please help.)
>>
>><< Oil pressure is 45 PSI while hot at an idle and 65 PSI
>> when cold at an idle. >>
>>
>>That's real good. After my '77 heats up completely the pressure drops down
>>to less than 30 at a slow idle, and about 50 at 3500 RPM.
>>
>><< I have not pulled the plugs yet to
>> see what they look like. The point gap is set to .015 and
>> the timing is set to 2 degrees ATDC as per the shop manual. >>
>>
>>Hmmmm. My shop manual (Haynes, I think I used!) says 10 deg BTDC. I have
>>it
>>set at about 8 deg BTDC. Are you sure about that timing setting? Maybe the
>>earlier dizzy would make the setting different, but that wouldn't be in the
>>manual. I will check my owners manual tomorrow when I pick up my car. (Not
>>"pick up" but when I get my car. Gimme a break!) The 2 deg ATDC setting
>>might be for static timing the dizzy. If you need it, I'll bring my timing
>>light on Saturday and we can check it. Let me know.
>>
>><< I am running an earlier mechanical dizzy if that matters. Not
>> sure about all the vacuum lines (no wise comments). The
>> points, wire, and dizzy cap have less than 300 miles on them.
>> Fuel pump works great and I put in 2 filters, one before the
>> pump and one at the carb. The manufacturer of the pump recommends
>> one before the pump. It will be a PITA to change on the road
>> side when it clogs. >>
>>
>>If you think it is a vacuum leak, just buy a roll of vacuum hose and replace
>>each one on the car. My car was desmogged so I only have the one vacuum
>>line
>>to the dizzy advance. You probably have more. Replace them one at a time
>>so
>>you don't get confused. I did that on my Mitsubishi. (It made no
>>difference
>>at all. Then I replaced the O2 sensor and fixed the problem.)
>>
>>I have one filter after my fuel pump. The mechanical fuel pumps on the 1500
>>Midgets are much more reliable than the electrical ones on earlier cars.
>>Plus, you don't have to put up with all that clicking noise.
>>
>>Keep on pluggin' Bill. I'll see you Saturday!
>>
>>Allen Hefner
>>SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
>>'77 Midget
>>'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
>
>
>Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
>macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
>System Administrator/Manager
>Neuropsychiatry Section
>Department of Psychiatry
>University of Pennsylvania
>3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates
>Philadelphia, PA 19104
>
> Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a
>question and you're a fool for the rest of your life.
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