I did pretty much what you are contemplating. I found the valve to be very
noisy at idle until I put a wooden plug in the hose with a 1/8" hole in it.
On a related note, when I installed my PCV, the oil leaking dropped off
dramatically, then came back worse than ever. It turned out that my timing
cover was cracked, and adding the PCV hose apparently accelerated the
cracking process considerably. The timing cover tends to crack because the
PCV canister is very poorly supported and it vibrates.
Anyway, I fixed my problem with the help of this list, some JB Weld on the
crack, and a stack of washers JB Welded between the top of the canister and
the cover to give a second support point to stop the vibrating.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that you might want to watch out for fresh
leaking around the timing cover area. It's not hard to fix a timing cover
crack, but it's a pretty big deal because you have to pull the radiator to
do it.
Tom Zuchowski
'61 Bugeye (1275)
Clemmons, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Gowins <cartman@dnai.com>
To: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 11:05 PM
Subject: PCV revisited
> Hello fellow listers,
>
> I've gone back into the archives and done some researching on the NAPA
> #2-9254 PCV valve. I'm picking one up tomorrow, as I feel I've donated
> enough oil to the ecosystems of California and Texas with my very generous
> Sprite. I've read about how different people have plumbed theirs. I
think
> I'm going to go the simple route, and just run it straight from the intake
> manifold to the timing cover canister. I've got a newer valve cover, and
it
> doesn't have any spots to hook up plumbing. Will this be enough to stop
the
> oil leak, or at least cut it down a great deal? Any words of advice would
> be much appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Greg Gowins
> '69 Sprite
> Dublin, CA
>
>
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