The wheels are 13x5", the tyres Hoosier Street TDs
No panel work was required, nor allowed in that class of racing. i.e. it is
totally stock panel work, trim, suspension and brakes. OK, springs, ride
height,
damper fluid/valves, and brake friction materials are free. Engine has to be
less than +0.060" and original block and head (though it can be ported with
big valves, can be shaved). Cam is free, exhaust is free, inlet manifold and
air filters free.. Webers allowed since they were a Special Tuning
catalogue item.
Panhard rod is not allowed either in that class. On a couple of my other
cars,
I have a Winners' Circle panhard rod on the bugeye (it came with it). It is
a nice
unit and can recommend it.. On another I have a home built unit. It works
equally
well.
Note that once the body roll is controlled, the tyre starts to rub on the
rear inner
guard. To combat this I used a wire wheel banjo (narrower). I now get very
little
rubbing.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Andrew.Griffith@ReadRite.com>
To: <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 10 November 1999 2:47
Subject: RE: rear springs movement
> Nice looking car Mike,
> What size tires are you running on the rear and what did you do to fit
them
> without modifying the outer fenders... did you remove the inner fender?
And
> which panhard rod setup did you go with?
> Thanks,
> -Drew from San Jose
> "62 Sprite w/ 18RG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Gigante [mailto:mikeg@vicnet.net.au]
> Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 6:01 PM
> To: Andy Webster
> Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: rear springs movement
>
>
> As promised, here are the photos that show just how much the rear axle
> moves under hard cornering (on a 1/2 elliptic car).
>
> http://home.vicnet.net.au/~mikeg/cars/panhard.htm
>
> Mike
> p.s. I am selling this car - see
> http://home.vicnet.net.au/~mikeg/cars/forsale.htm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andy Webster <trunkie@hotmail.com>
> To: <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
> Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, 9 November 1999 1:38
> Subject: Re: rear springs movement
>
>
> > A mate of mine quoted Bob Gill as saying to him that: ' the way to make
a
> > sprite handle is to have it tight in the front and loose in the back'.
> > Is this so?
> > Andy
> >
> >
> > >From: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
> > >Reply-To: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
> > >To: <BCAH@aol.com>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> > >Subject: Re: rear springs movement
> > >Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 15:54:12 +1100
> > >
> > >Well, you won't tear out the mounts on a solid car - historic racing
> > >proves that.
> > >
> > >On the other hand, a panhard rod sure does help.
> > >
> > >I'll post a couple of photos of a car (1/2 elliptic) without panhard
rod
> > >under hard cornering. You'll be stunned on how far the axle moves.
> > >
> > >Mike
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: <BCAH@aol.com>
> > >To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Monday, 8 November 1999 12:16
> > >Subject: rear springs movement
> > >
> > >
> > > > Does anyone have any accurate information on just how much the rear
> > >springs
> > > > on a 1/4 elliptic will allow the axle to move side-to-side on hard
> > > > cornering? It seems there must be a lot of force on the front attach
> > >bolts
> > >on
> > > > this setup. What I'm really concerned with is not so much the
springs
> > > > themselves , but the attach points in the sheet metal. One would
think
> > >they
> > > > would be easy to tear out with today's sticky tires. Anyone have any
> > > > experience with this high stress point? It would seem a panhard rod
> > >would
> > >be
> > > > needed the time. Bob Chamberlain
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> >
>
|