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Re: points

To: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>, "spridgets@autox.team.net" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: points
From: Steven Fooshee <fooshst@stumail.gc.cc.fl.us>
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 20:36:22 -0500
References: <37ACB069.DD1B346D@stumail.gc.cc.fl.us> <37ACD17D.123FE489@brit.ca>
Reply-to: Steven Fooshee <fooshst@stumail.gc.cc.fl.us>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
        THANKS! And I noticed you didn't use too many big words :) It's too hot
here in Florida to do anything while the sun's out, so working on it is
a challenge, especially on my ability to think. I sure wish I had a
garage!

Trevor Boicey wrote:
> 
> Steven Fooshee wrote:
> >
> > Greetings list. I just replaced the points on my Sprite, and can't get
> > the car to fire. It ran (poorly, due to no gap in the points) and now
> > won't. Argh. Can someone give me an accurate list of the components
> > under the bolt where the spring is? I remember flubbing this up when I
> > replaced them last time and it running when I put the rubber bit back
> > between the wire to the plate and the one to the condenser. I'm not the
> > biggest whiz on points ignition, so please type slowly! TIA.
> 
>   I would suspect that you have grounded out the points.
> 
>   This is not hard to do, because there are a few styles of
> points, and they insulate that arm differently. In other words,
> if you take the old one off, and put the new one on
> exactly the same, it might not work.
> 
>   Essentially, there is one screw that holds the
> points on the distributor, and also has the wire
> to the condensor and the wire to the outside
> screwed onto it with lugs.
> 
>   These two wires have to make electrical contact
> with each other, and the points arm, but NOT
> to the distributor body. Since it's screwed in
> with a metal screw, it has to be insulated.
> 
>   There are two ways to do this that I know
> of. One uses a plastic peg that these wires go
> on, and a metal net screws onto the plastic peg
> to secure them. I call this the "older" type because
> a lot of cars that are getting their first points
> change in a long time have them.
> 
>   The "new" type seems to be what I get when
> I order new ones today. The kit has two
> cone-shaped plastic pegs, and a metal screw.
> 
>   To assemble this, the two cones point towards
> each other on the screw so that the metal of the
> points is isolated from the screw it's on. As well,
> the two lugged-wires go between the cones so they
> touch the points but not the ground. Then the screw
> is tightened down to hold everything but doesn't
> electrically touch.
> 
>   You'll figure it out if you have a look at what
> you have. Just remember that those three electrical
> contacts (points, condensor, and the one that goes
> out under the cap) have to touch each other but not
> be grounded to the distributor.
> 
> --
> Trevor Boicey, P. Eng.
> Ottawa, Canada, tboicey@brit.ca
> ICQ #17432933 http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
> Thirty Helens agree.

-- 

1987 RX-7 TII: Japanese version of British electrics.
1990 GS 500-E: Japanese version of British corrosion control.
MCMLXIX Sprite: The World Standard.
Eddie Irvine: 1999 Formula One World Champion!

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