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Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.

Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
From: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 15:19:47 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Reply-to: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
All,

Thanks everyone for your comments.
All the components in my system are true new Locheed, and I'm using the 
'teflon/braded steel' flexible brake lines.
At this point I guess I'll try making a few adjustments at the master, and if 
that doesn't resolve the problems, I'll probably end up flushing, and going 
with 
LMA type fluid.
As far as the clutch goes, how stiff should I expect it to be?? I've never 
actually drive a sprite before, so I don't know how it compares. All I know is 
that it is harder to push that any other car I've driven before.

 - Bryan
 
>X-Accept-Language: en
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@eng.sun.com>
>CC: spridgets@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>Bryan,
>
>I'd be interested in hearing how well your brakes work with the "synthetic" 
fluid.
>I presume you are referring to Silicone DOT 5 fluid.  We tried it under similar
>circumstances and ran into a "hydraulic lock" situation.  The rubber cups in 
the
>master cylinder swelled up causing blockage.
>
>Anyone else have this trouble?
>
>WFO Herb
>Keep the sticky side down!
>
>Bryan Vandiver wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I'm just putting the finishing touches on my bugeye restoration project, and
>> have run into some issues with the rear brakes, and clutch.
>>
>> I am using a rebuilt 7/8 inch dual master, that was bead-blasted, and honed. 
I
>> cleaned out all the brake and clutch lines with carb cleaner, and then blew 
them
>> out with compressed air. Since I was upgrading to front disk brakes, I 
thought
>> it would be best to upgrade the rear as well, so I pulled the brake backing
>> plates off a '78 rb midget (as well as the parking brake linkages), and
>> installed a new set of 3/4" brake cylinders. I am using my 'original' bearing
>> hubs, and brake drums ( dated 7/58). once I installed everything, and bolted 
on
>> the wheels, I noticed a lot of binding on the rear wheels ( in fact, I could
>> barely push the car out of the garage). After taking off both drums, they 
both
>> appear to be contacting the later brake backing plates. I compared my early
>> brake drums to later ones, and they have the same exact distance from the 
back
>> lip of the drum to the mounting surface. Has anyone done this, or run into 
this
>> problem??
>>
>> As for the clutch...
>> This is the 'stiffest' clutch I have experience in any car, is that typical 
of
>> sprites??
>> I have a ribcase trans, but the new clutch slave cylinder is the 'early 
style'
>> 7/8" (moss 180-655), to be compatible with my original clutch line and 
master.
>> All other clutch components are '1275 type' including the slave cyl 
'push-rod'.
>> The 'new' clutch kit was part# COM710/kit from MiniMania.
>> Besides being very tough to bleed, are these clutches really that hard to
>> disengage? I can't imaging driving with this in traffic!
>>
>> BTW - I am using 'sythetic brake fluid' since I am using all new components, 
and
>> all lines were'flushed' first.
>>
>> Regards - Bryan Vandiver (San Jose, CA)
>


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