>Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 11:04:14 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
>Subject: Re: Free Midgets and Me (LOOOONG)
>Brad,
>my '73 block is a thick flange block, my '67 is a thin flange block.
>I could measure the thickness for you at home, but you could also look in
>"Original S&M" (which we should all have), there is agreat picture of the
>two side by side.
>Ulix
>On Wed, 14 Jul 1999, Brad Fornal wrote:
>> Congrats to ya Adrian,I know the feeling you have right now,I bought a
pair
>> of '73 Midgets about 200 miles from my house for $600, we got one
running
>> using the other as a donor.ATTENTION all gurus,did the 73 come with a
"heavy
>> block" I have a friend looking for a 1275 to rebuild and mentioned
something
>> about the thickness of the oilpan rail being a determining factor, the
one
>> that came out of the donor is taking up space in my shed and I want to be
>> sure of what I'm selling before shipping it?!Does anyone know what the
>> thickness of the rail should be on these "better"blocks ?TIA Brad
Fornal
Ulix is correct. the difference is obvious in Horley's book "Original S+M".
However, which block to rebuild is unclear. Probably the thick flange block
is the stronger as the factory standardized on it after bottom end failures.
Chances are that a 67 thin flange block has an EN40B special forged steel
crank to compensate for any flexing of the block which might be highly
desirable. The best engine might be a thick flange unit with a 67 crank.
Fred Pixley
Napanee, Ontario
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