If the gauge always registers "full" when the voltage stablizer is
disconnected, then there would almost have to be a short in the gauge
itself, as mentioned in my previous note. The voltage stabilizer is a
bi-metal type thing that is probably acting like a backwards "thermostatic"
fuel gauge when it feeds current to the actual fuel gauge, if the actual
fuel gauge is shorted out.
Bob
>
>Larry Miller (Me) is having the fuel gauge problem. The gauge is wired
>through a voltage stabilizer. When not wired through the stabilizer it just
>goes to full and stays there.
>
>Larry Miller
>http://www.ado13.com
>"Nothing Is Foolproof To A Sufficiently Talented Fool"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <theskinny@excite.com>
>To: <millerls@ado13.com>
>Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 10:24 AM
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge
>
>
>> Larry:
>> Just realized you are having problems with both your fuel gauge and temp
>> guage. My money is betting that you do not have them wired through the
>> voltage stabalizer. It is a little box, about 1"x1/2"x1/2" mounted to
the
>> back side of the dash board right above the radio console, with a green
>> supply wire, and two Light Green with dark green trace wires coming off
of
>> it. The LGG wires supply the reduced voltage to your fuel gauge and temp
>> guage. The voltage stabalizer is necessary, because in full charge
>> conditions, the alternator/dynamo is supplying the electrical system with
>up
>> to 16 volts, which would cause the electrical gauges to read higher
>(hotter
>> or fuller) than when the voltage is under drain, say when honking the
>horns,
>> or using the highbeams. The solution is to supply a stabalized 8 volts
at
>> all times, so the gauges would not be affected by changes in voltage.
>Hope
>> this is it. Good luck.
>>
>> David Riker
>>
>>
>>
>>
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