Greg,
Remember, if the cap were "perfect", the pressure and
boiling point would be higher. It may well be perfect
- the coolant may be losing a few degrees by the time
it's hit the overflow tank to where you're measuring.
Not to worry - you'll be the "coolest" car at
Blackhawk. What are your Sprite's colors? Will be
cheering on the Sunday race day...
Ron
--- Gregory_Schulz@mil-elect-tool.com wrote:
>
>
>
> It is mandated by a local (Midwest) vintage racing
> authority
> (VSCDA) that I must run straight water in my cooling
> system.
> I can, however, add water pump lubricant and Water
> Wetter
> (real or "home-made").
>
> That is what prompted my initial question regarding
> my 7 psi
> radiator cap yielding a 225 degree boil over point.
> I wouldn't
> mind using a higher psi cap (if one was available)
> but am
> unsure exactly how much pressure a Mk I radiator can
> handle.
>
> I imagine the filler neck could be modified for
> non-LBC caps.
> Has anybody obtained/used a higher psi-rated cap and
> used
> it on the early down-flow cooling system?
>
> Greg
> '58 Bugeye
>
>
>
>
>
> Ron Soave <soavero@yahoo.com> on 06/08/99 08:27:28
> AM
>
> Please respond to Ron Soave <soavero@yahoo.com>
>
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> cc: (bcc: Gregory Schulz/MED/IT/ATLAS COPCO)
>
> Subject: Re: overheating water temp
>
>
>
>
>
> > You can't say a given radiator with a given
> pressure
> > cap will overheat at a set number of degrees --
> it
> > would depend on the coolant mix (assuming nobody
> is
> > crazy enough to run straight water), right?
>
> The EGW (coolant) has a very slight effect on
> raising
> boiling point. I have to run, but will give exact
> info later.
>
> And I really hope you can predict when stuff
> overheats
> - that's what I do all day.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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