My 2¢ on fasteners:
When re-assembling my 69 Midget, I calculated the difference in price to do
the car with grade 5 and 8 bolts versus using ungraded and grade 3...it
came out to be less than I spend on coffee in a 2 of weeks. (That's at
Orchard Supply Hardware prices)(I do drink a lot of coffee though)
>The only thing I've used stainless on was the manifold/block and
>manifold/pipe junctions. Are there any others I should change before they
>freeze up?
Stainless is nice, but even more expensive. I tend not to use it because
of the galling problem, although a good anti-seize helps prevent this.
>I use brass nuts on studs for the exhaust manifolds of LBC's, brass also
>not corroding and not >galling.
I find brass to be the best for all exhaust applications, even better than
SS with anti seize.
>I also use neverseize almost everywhere exposed to weather.
Definitely...you will thank yourself 5 years later when trying to remove
some bolts which have been out in the weather...and they come off with a
wrench (rather than a torch and the jaws-of-life)(who was it that says all
anything takes is a checkbook anf high explosives?)
CTP
At 10:28 AM -0800 1/13/98, Shawn J. Tobin wrote:
>Perhaps I SHOULD CLARIFY...
>The Grade 2 SS fasteners I used for only holding the fenders
>on and light-duty stuff like that. You should always use
>grade 5 or 8 for engine or suspension work--8 for brakes.
>I've never broken a bolt tightening it but I don't use air tools.
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