Alan
I don't know if it's helpful but,
If it weren't happening front and rear I might think it was an internally
collapsed brake hose preventing pressure release, but two at once, while not
impossible, is unlikely. When I replaced/rebuilt my MC I had to fiddle a bit
with the length of the pushrod going into brake bore. (This is on an old 7/8"
bore combined brake/clutch) If it was too long, the brakes stayed "on" - the
lights stayed on also "some" of the time. The pedal feel was very hard though,
either all off or all on. Not really what I would call " a nice full pedal" I
think this is because the piston prevents fluid from coming back up the pipe if
it doesn't come out far enough.
Phil Vanner
See you in a couple of weeks
-----Original Message-----
From: alan b fisher [SMTP:hello39@idt.net]
Sent: Monday, October 27, 1997 3:36 PM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: another brake question
I just got finished installing a master cylinder in my 59 and bled
the entire system, including the clutch slave. With all air removed
and a nice full pedal on both clutch and brake I noticed I
couldn't spin my brake rotor( drivers side). I converted to discs
also. I figured bad caliper, replaced it with a decent spare and rebled
system.
Same problem, then I noticed the rear drums weren't free spinning
either.
I took a chance with a master cylinder that appeared ok but never went
inside.
My best guess is the return path for the fluid is blocked by the piston
in the master or a section of bad rubber cup in the bore. Any help or
best guesses b4 I remove the old master and send off to Apple? If the
pressure was there all the time wouldn't my brake lites stay on also. I
don't think they were but plan to check as well.
Thanx in advance,
Alan
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