Mike... seriously sounds like a simple tarnished GROUND
connection. AS most of these systems all ground to the
bodywork via through sheetmetal screws, simple tarnish/rust
can limit current flow. A loose ground screw is my bet!
Paul Tegler
ptegler@cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "mikeross" <mikeross@prodigy.net>
To: "Spitfires@Autox.Team" <spitfires@autox.team.net>;
<SPIT6CGT6@yahoogroups.com>; "Spitfire-Enthusiast@Yahoogroups.Com"
<spitfire-enthusiast@yahoogroups.com>; "Nass@Yahoogroups.Com"
<nass@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 5:29 PM
Subject: [SPIT6CGT6] Need help from those electrical engineers! Kinda long
I have a stereo conversion for my original Triumph radio that gives me
AM/FM/CD ability ,with a built in amplifier, a 6 disc CD changer/player and
an electric retractable antennae.
Lately, I've noticed a very unusual electrical problem. If I have the radio
on and step on the brake pedal or flip the turn signal lever, the radio goes
off and the antennae retracts. The fuel gauge, turn signals and brake
lights also quit working. But, it doesn't blow a fuse!
I haven't pulled all the gauges to check the connections yet because I
wanted to run this by those of you with more electrical experience than I.
I had installed a "CirKit Boss Fuse Center", purchased from Victoria British
to wire in the radio/amplifier and CD player/changer, and the electric
retractable antennae. The fuse center is grounded directly to the negative
battery cable. It has two positive leads for power; one coming from an
"ignition hot" source for the radio and another from a "constant hot" source
for a clock.
My recollection is that I spliced into the hot wire going to the fuel gauge
for the "ignition hot" circuit and to the brake light switch wire for the
"constant hot" circuit. That could explain a relationship between the
radio, brake lights and fuel gauge. I cannot see the connection to the turn
signals, though.
I used those parallel pinch wire connectors that fold and crimp into the
source wire causing sharp metal prongs to cut through the insulation and
contact the strands of wire to make a connection. The wire you're splicing
is also clamped and perforated at the same time, parallel to the source wire
allowing current to flow through both.
To make things more mysterious, sometimes, if I turn off the radio after
power is lost and I don't use the brakes or turn signals for a while, I can
turn on the radio and the antenna goes up and the radio works! Then, I step
on the brake or flip the turn signal, and it goes off again.
Any thoughts?
TIA,
Mike
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|