I'm thinking that if you're clacking loud and down on power, you may have
"spun a bearing", where instead of having a bearing shell on the bottom half
of the crankshaft and one on the top half, you have two on the bottom (or
top).
If the crank's gotten scored by this, well it's going to need a regrind and
once
you start that, you're basically into a whole rebuild.
Does the engine resist revving? Is the oil pressure light on?
Something to look for and hope against whilst in there.
Replace the main bearings while you're at it (about $20 for the set of mains
and $20
for the set of rod bearings) and most DEFINITELY replace the thrust washers
(about $6).
It is VERY IMPORTANT that the new bearings go in with the tabs the same way
as the old. Bearing caps must go back on the same rod or main that they
came off
of. Do NOT turn them around. Don't even swap around the bolts. Oil the
bearings before installing, make sure everything is scrupulously clean and
use a
torque wrench.
There's a chance that you may develop or increase oil leaks due to the
weight
of the crank temporarily hanging on the oil seals, but it's more than a
worthwhile
tradeoff if you're not able to do a full rebuild.
It's really not that bad of a job and gives a most satisfying sense of
accomplishment
(as well as an increase in oil pressure).
Best!
Greg Rowe
>From: "ptegler@cablespeed" <ptegler@cablespeed.com>
>Reply-To: "ptegler@cablespeed" <ptegler@cablespeed.com>
>To: <Stardust8409@aol.com>, <spitfires@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: got the oil plug out now the real issue!
>Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 16:38:57 -0400
>
>He He... (your 'jiggle' description)...
>
>Yes...the only things 'moveable' from down in the pan
>the crankshaft itself, and the 'big ends' of the piston
>rods. If you can move a rod left and right (drvr to passenger
>across the width of the vehicle)... the bearing is shot
>on that rod.
>It's not uncommon to be able to move the rods a tiny bit
>fore and aft (radiator to passenger compartment)
>But any more than about a 'jiggles worth' (1/16"?) to probably
>not good in the long run.
>
>So replace them all while your there. They can all be replaced
>without tearing down or removing the engine.
>Paul Tegler
>ptegler@cablespeed.com
>www.teglerizer.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Stardust8409@aol.com>
>To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 3:14 PM
>Subject: got the oil plug out now the real issue!
>
>
> > Checking the bottom end of the engine, That was the reason for pulling
>off
> > the oil pan. There is a loud clacking and no power on this spit. The
>local
> > spit guys that come by my house from time to time to admire my spit told
>me
> > it was a bad rod(bearing?) either in the lower end or the upper end, and
>said
> > if it was the lower end it'd be an easier fix, and said if it was in the
> > upper end it meant taking the head off and preferably removing the
> > engine(something I am very ill equiped to do). They said when I remove
>the
> > oil pan, see if anything jiggles. I found one thing that jiggled a good
> > amount forward and back(from passanger side to drivers) and another
>matching
> > thing that only jiggled side to side(front of car to back) very
>slightly.
>As
> > I've said in the past I know very little, but am very willing and eager
>to
> > learn .
> >
> > I can provide detailed
>
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