I've had that happen, but used this system:
The threaded end of the long bolt has a blunt tapered
point machined onto the end.
I used a long (36") steel pipe, and BFH (Big Ferrous
Hammer) to drive the bolt out.
The tapered end of the bolt keeps the end of the pipe
centered.
Carter Shore
--- Douglas Braun & Nadia Papakonstantinou
<doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
> If the long bolt is frozen in place, you have a
> long, painful
> job with a hacksaw blade ahead of you.
>
> Doug Braun
> '72 Spit
>
> At 12:24 PM 5/3/02 , you wrote:
> >Mark Holbrook wrote:
> > >
> > > Has anyone replaced the rear mount on a GT6
> diff? I
> > > think it is worn out because my fear end is
> hopping
> > > when I start the forward motion.
> >
> >Don't quote me Mark, but I believe the holes in the
> pumpkin for the
> >long rear bolt are bushed-- which should be an EZ
> fix. If the frame's
> >mount points are worn, it's a weld job.
> >--
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